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Author Topic: Workwoman's Guide Seam Allowance?  (Read 1698 times)
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Allison vV
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« on: June 16, 2014, 02:49:27 PM »

(This applies to either the ladies' or men's section, though I am working on a men's pattern.  Please feel free to move this).

I am working on a mock-up of the men's drawers pattern in The Workwoman's Guide.  While making the pattern, I came across a problem to which I can't seem to find an answer.  Namely, do The Workwoman's Guide patterns include seam allowance?

I have reason to think that the men's drawers pattern (at least) does.  The pattern says to procure the material 14 nails wide; this is the exact width of the diagram.  Also, to cut each breadth (for each leg) 13 nails long; although the figure is barely legible, I do believe the exact length of the diagram is 13 nails.  Surely, if the pattern doesn't include seam allowance, they wouldn't tell you to cut your material to these measures.

I made my mock-up assuming 1/4" seam allowances, and everything seams to be okay.  However, if I were making something that was to fit precisely, I would need to know for certain whether or no they included seam allowances.

Does anyone have an answer or opinion?
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Allison van Vegten


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"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
Jim_Ruley
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« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2014, 04:01:09 PM »


 However, if I were making something that was to fit precisely, I would need to know for certain whether or no they included seam allowances.



I think this is the key -- drawers and square-cut shirts do not fit precisely.  If you have fitting problems, go up one size Smiley.

Don't try this with a frock or tailcoat pattern....
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Allison vV
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2014, 03:35:18 PM »

Don't try this with a frock or tailcoat pattern....

Quite right Smiley.

Fortunately for this project it wasn't critical.  Still, does anyone know for sure if seam allowances are included?
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Allison van Vegten


"Procrastination is the thief of time. Collar him!" Charles Dickens

"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
Elizabeth
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2014, 05:24:23 PM »

Scanning through it on-line with searches for seam, seam allowance, turn, turning, and allowance, there's not a standard seam allowance given for all the projects.

Some do warn to "allow extra for hems" and "the finished crown will be 1 nail across; allow for turning down the hem as needed" (both meaning to add what you want and need extra.)

In several spots, there's a note about "allowing 1/4 nail for turning in"; one nail is 1/16 of a yard, or 2.25", so 1/4 nail would be .56"... so go either 1/2" or 5/8", whichever you prefer, on edges that will be narrow hemmed (you'll get a finished 1/4" hem.)

Most of the caps can be made with narrow hems (1/4" or so); double check what you need for the person against the size, and fudge around a bit from there. Smiley
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Elizabeth
Allison vV
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« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2014, 03:48:24 PM »

Thank you, Mrs. Clark, for checking on this.  I shall use my own discretion based on the project, then.  Thank you!
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Allison van Vegten


"Procrastination is the thief of time. Collar him!" Charles Dickens

"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
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