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Author Topic: I'm desperate with these darts :/ !!!  (Read 2423 times)
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Theresa W
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« on: May 26, 2014, 02:42:58 PM »

Hello Ladies-
I'm currently in the midst of a mock-up for a taffeta dress I've got to wear this weekend.  First problem so far is the bust darts. I added 8 extra inches to the bodice pattern (fba), so that would be 4 inches on each side. But when I try to dart this in (both by just sewing the darts, and by trying to "drape" pin them over my corseted figure), they just will not turn out properly.

I know to put them at that "V" angle, and two for each side, and I'm ending them about mid bust. But If they fit smooth at the front, like how they are supposed to, then there are these super gross pull lines from waist to armhole at a diagonal that I just CANNOT get rid of...is there anyway I could do a side bust dart as well? If I did this I think that might fix the problem.

Any suggestions would be welcome I'm literally about to just-blah-go crazy. (At least I was able to fit the back smooth Cheesy)
~Theresa
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Theresa W
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« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2014, 04:45:41 PM »

I might should add I have read things in the search here...but I really can't make it go away. I've got my side seams at the angle so they don't "bulk" the waist, and I've tried to take the fabric out where I could. But there is just so much I'm going to cry. Sad My measurments are bust: 43-45 waist: 25-26.
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Marjorie
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« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2014, 07:55:55 PM »

If you put a side bust dart in, does it hang properly?

No, they are not period, but you may be able to swing the dart.  Do you have Liz's book?

Or perhaps take less in the dart from bust to waist and pull some of that fabric into the side seam?

Is there any way you can post a pic so we can see exactly how it hangs?
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Theresa W
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« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2014, 09:17:07 AM »

I do not have Liz's book Sad But I do hope to get it someday Smiley

I couldn't get it to come out right when I put it in the side seam...it kept taking it out of the bust as well. (I'm on like mock-up number 4 or 5) We (mum and I) tried moving the fabric from that "side dart" back down to to the front, and this is what it looks like right now.
from the front:

from the underside( is that far side one to far out? It's got this super weird bubble going on at the top, but when I move my arm it goes away. I'm scared if I sew the dart all the way to the armhole it will prevent my being able to move...as well as make the armhole too small.



does this look do-able?I'm still unhappy with the darts. should I try to make them shorter?
« Last Edit: May 27, 2014, 09:21:18 AM by Theresa W » Logged
BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2014, 11:16:03 AM »

Theresa,

I'm no expert, having never done a full bust alteration, but I'm going to suggest a few  things and hopefully others with more experience with these kinds of things will chime in:

1. I think the angle of your darts may be a BIT too sharp. They don't need to start that far forward or angle back quite that far. The inner dart looks like it's starting at the center front - you'll want to move that back at least a couple inches, and it should release right near the center of the fullest part. The outer dart should release just to the outside of your boob (where it starts to curve in) and it should be a little bit longer than the first one.

2. You may get a better result from darts that are more arched than straight - they have the look of a stained glass window in a church more than a triangle, if that makes sense.

3. There's a LOT of extra fabric there, and I think once you adjust the angles of the darts to be less sharp, you'll find that some of the excess you have in your outermost dart can be eliminated at the side seam.

I'm guessing that some of the issues of fullness above the bust can be solved with padding - I'm not seeing anything that needs to be swung out, though that may change.

Again, others who have more experience will hopefully be along to offer help.
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Betsy Connolly
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« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2014, 08:01:01 PM »

I agree with Betsy.  The placement of the darts is extremely "off" for what is typical of the period.  You may want to look through the woman's thread for pictures is other people with bodice problems to try to get a clearer picture of what the dart placement should look like.

I also agree that the area above your bust may be ok.. It would be a lot easier to tell if you had someone else take the picture but I realize that is not always possible.  Keep up the good work, you CAN do this.
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Theresa W
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« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2014, 05:35:35 AM »

OK, thank you ladies, I'll post a new mockup soon.
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2014, 01:45:50 PM »

Looking at the bodice, I think it's overall too large, which is contributing to the challenge of getting those darts situated. The fact that you can dart all the way into the armscye tells me the front bodice is too wide--which means you can take some out at the side seams, re-cut the armscye, and re-dart to have a *slight* slant, and be pinned right to your torso (which will result in the arced darts, not straight legged.) Remember, you don't need to pull the side seam evenly--you can take more out at the bottom than the top.

You can also adjust the armscye itself; right now, it's dropping more than you need, but it's also too wide at the front of the bust. If you cut that back, making almost a U shape as it goes from shoulder to front bust to underarm, you'll get an overall better fit and a smaller, higher armscye that will give you more mobility.

I think I have my oldest daughter's flat patterns downstairs, semi-accessible. I don't know if I'll get a shot of them before the weekend, though. They show one variation of what happens when there's a 14" difference bust to waist... the armscye looks extremely odd to modern eyes, but works perfectly for her actual corseted figure!
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Regards,
Elizabeth
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