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Author Topic: Sleeve Woes  (Read 1142 times)
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Hannah Marie
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« on: February 17, 2014, 10:04:25 AM »

If I go mad, I swear it will be due to these sleeves. I'm using this plate as inspiration for my latest creation in a yummy red plaid silk taffeta:

http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/dgkeysearchdetail.cfm?trg=1&strucID=720763&imageID=803007&total=588&num=40&parent_id=720624&s=&notword=&d=&c=&f=&k=1&sScope=&sLevel=&sLabel=&lword=&lfield=&sort=&imgs=20&pos=42&snum=&e=w

I constructed my sleeve from my open sleeve pattern I drafted forever ago (pagoda-ish but less bell shape and more open). Me, attempting to think logically, thought "hey let's snip a triangle out of the sleeve and sew the right sides together." This ended up being a major fail, as the triangle piece poofed up from the main sleeve and just looked silly. But I did however have the triangle piece right (I think) as the shape of the triangle edge matched up with my inspiration. I then tried to sew the wrong side of the sleeve to the right side of the triangle, but the stitches showed through to the fabric, and the hypothetical placement of the ribbon didn't match up with where the visible stitches landed.

I am now at a loss for what I should try next. Make the triangle smaller and try sewing right/wrong sides together? Draft new sleeves? Any help is appreciated, thank you!
 
-Hannah Marie
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Marta Vincent
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2014, 10:28:46 AM »

I think this may be a two piece sleeve.  Or actually 3 piece... It appears that the front & back (or upper & lower are the same basic shape with a bit of a curve at the elbow.  Then the small piece is set in.  Having used many extant patterns, and as a student of Kay Gnageys' who collects those full sized patterns from Der Bazar (and reads German); The upper & lower sleeve pieces are probably joined at the front seam, lined and trimmed.  The small piece is trimmed to match.  Then the upper sleeve is laid over the back edge of the under sleeve, matching trim, and top stitched down. Not done right sides together.  The the small piece is lined and top stitched in place.

There are tricky ways of lining so that the trim does not attach to the lining, but I am totally unable to explain it.  I can DO it, but...

I also noticed that in the front of the sleeve, right at the crease of the elbow, there appears to be a small pleat or dart that causes the sleeve to 'bend' there.  Also a period solution. So it might not be a two piece sleeve at all, but using the pleat or dart, creates the desired curve to the front of the sleeve.
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Hannah Marie
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2014, 11:14:44 AM »

That makes sense, thank you Ms. Marta!
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