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Author Topic: difference between coat, jacket and paletot sac? shirt patterns?  (Read 3218 times)
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Mrs Johnson
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« on: December 04, 2013, 08:08:37 AM »

is there a free tutorial anywhere for shirts?  i'm just looking for the 'on the square' type.

and what's the difference between a jacket, a coat and a paletot sac?  i'm making my boys trowsers and vest, i'm looking for whatever would be the most versatile.

eta~ my boys are 11 and 8.
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~ Jennifer
Jim_Ruley
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« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2014, 06:05:19 PM »

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what's the difference between a jacket, a coat and a paletot sac?


Terms used to describe clothing styles varied from era to era and from author to author.  However, generally speaking:

"Coat" refers to a full-length man's outer garment.  "Jacket" in the mid-19th century generally refers to a shorter garment.  Obviously there is some overlap here, but a knee-length garment is pretty much universally called a "coat". 

"Paletot" refers to a style of garment with no waist seam in the front, and generally no separately cut side body.  This was originally an overcoat, but by the 1860's had become an accepted informal style of coat.  DeVere's "Paletot Jacket" draft is an example.

I have not nailed down a definition of the term "sack coat" but "sack" or "sac" back seems to refer to a one-piece back with no seam in the middle.  This is obviously looser fitting than a shaped back, which probably gave rise to the name.  So "paletot sac" probably refers to a paletot with a one-piece back; which is not to say that some cutter used it to refer to something else.

Hope this helps,

Jim Ruley
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Marta Vincent
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« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2014, 06:13:41 AM »

In the photos & other images I have seen of boys, the vast majority of boys who appear to be age 6-12 or so are wearing short, unfitted jackets (waist to hip length) with cutaway fronts or straight & buttoned.   

The ones cut away in front tend to be seen on younger boys, children, girls and women (Garibaldi Jacket would be one of several styles for these) and may be trimmed to match short trousers, skirts, dresses etc. In effect, to create an outfit.

The plain buttoned ones are very much like the same style worn by men.

Paletots & frock coats are worn by older (age 10 or so - teen) boys for "dress", but otherwise they appear dressed like little men in long trousers and sack jackets.
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