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Author Topic: Drafting a white waist/body  (Read 896 times)
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BetsyConnolly
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« on: March 14, 2013, 12:53:27 PM »

I am planning to make a white body/waist from some really nice semi-sheer lawn, to be worn with a silk skirt and a Swiss waist. I have my old stand-by muslin/pattern for a day bodice, either darted or gathered with a true three-piece back. If I want to make a body like this, how would I go about taking my bodice pattern and adjusting it for this? I can easily turn the back into a one-piece, but how do I add fullness in the back? Do I slash and spread? should I add more fullness to the front, or is that unnecessary?

Thanks!
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Betsy Connolly
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E L Watkins-Morris
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2013, 06:55:15 AM »

Betsy-
You answered your own questions!

Yes, slash and spread the fronts and backs as you would for a regular gathered bodice. 

How much to add is up to you. Conservatively, an additional 3 inches of width is fine for the back and about 1.5-2 to the fronts in addition to that taken up by the darts. Just depends on the fabric, how tailored you want it (or not) and how much your shaped waist will cover.



Liz W.
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BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2013, 08:14:22 AM »

Betsy-
You answered your own questions!


Yay! I got it right! Cheesy

Now, how do I slash and spread so that just the bottom portion gets the fullness? Am I correct in thinking that slashing all the way through the shoulder seams would not be advisable, since it would add lots of room to the shoulders? Or is that what I want?

I'm imagining that I should just slash through to the middle of the back, about even with the side seams , and spread that much. Is that about right? I don't want to add too much fullness, as this is a really drape-y lawn and I don't think it would be suited to those really really tight gathers, so thanks for the estimation of how much to add Smiley
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Betsy Connolly
Living History Society of Minnesota
In The Past Lane - my blog
E L Watkins-Morris
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2013, 09:50:55 AM »

You did it again!  Grin

I just sent some sketches via email.

One thing to look for is the shoulder seams will curve up as you spread the bottom. Just keep the seam lying smooth (thank you scotch tape) and when you pull the gathers back in the curve will corrct itself.

LIz W.
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Materium Superbat Opus-Ovid
Simple yet complex...-Mark Baldridge, Art 101: The Principles of Design
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