post modern mid century

[Jehanne H]

I am making garments to be part of a costume room where different people of different shapes and sizes will be coming in and choosing clothing to wear.  I need to fit many sizes.
We need to be "period", but not so "period" that we need hand stitching to whip the raw edges of our seam allowances, or so "period" that we need split drawers or actual bone buttons.  We need more theatrical period clothing, but not too Hollywoodish.  And, we are representing hard working, rural people.  So, we do not need hoops for the ladies, nor do we need silk vests for the guys.

I am planning on making skirts, Garibaldi shirts, roped petticoats and a few basic cotton dresses and pinner aprons for the ladies.   For the guys I will be making mostly working shirts and wool vests.  I stop short of making trousers for the guys.  I thought that maybe I could make some nice collars and some neckerchiefs to wear with the dresses, as accessories.  Maybe some type of snoods would be appropriate.  I hope to provide some sontags and a few short wool capes, or, maybe some simple coats.  The outside season that we represent does begin early in the year and last until the middle of Fall.  So, we do get some pretty raw outside days.

My question is to ask if any of you have managed to tuck some more modern comfort techniques into the traditional clothes to make them more adjustable to different people.  I am thinking of trying to add some elastic into a skirt waistband somewhere, discretely, so as not to detract from the period look.   Of course, I am NOT going to gather a skirt up with an elastic band and call it "period". 
Also, I have toyed with the idea of adding some elastic to the waistband button extension so to make the waist more adjustable.   Once you add a pinner apron to the outfit, it covers a lot.  The petticoats will have some elastic in the waist.  No one is gong to see the elastic bands, and they will be so much more comfortable than are those cotton tapes that don't stretch a bit.  I will make the petticoats in the authentic style with the cording.

I chose to make the Garibaldi shirts because they are loose fitting and apt to fit more different body shapes than are fitted bodices. 

I promise not to get so theatrical that we lose the essence of the period costume!  I know that some of you are really invested in  doing things the authentic way.  But, the needs that I am serving are a little different  from seeking to be absolutely correct right down to the nitty gritty.  I do plan to serge seams that do not show.  Where it really counts, and shows, I will try to do it the authentic way.  I promise!!

[Beth Chamberlain]

I'm away from a real computer for a few days so this is a very short version of my thoughts.

I would avoid anything theatrical. While it may add flexibility theatrical clothing is meant for short term wear and too often adds weight, fusiness, and heat. Elastic will be more troublesome troublesome and uncomfortable than you expect. Dresses, kind of based on wrapper ooncepts, with draw strings for adjustment work well and look reasonable for what the average woman super wore while working.
Corded and regular petticoats with stable but adjustable waistbands are both  accurate and comfortable. Avoid blouse and skirt combinations, they are a high fashion item and when worn without all the proper parts is a very sad thing in many ways.

There are several of us here who have done costuming for museums so I'm sure others will weigh in. if you're interested in some of the fitting accommodations I find useful I can talk about them later in the week.

Beth

[Beth Chamberlain]

apologies for the very strange typos in that, my phone refuses to let me fix them
 

Beth

[Paula]

I agree with Beth.  Here are some of the things we thought about and discussed while working on a clothing plan for our new docents.

 First we had some discussion on what we wanted to represent and where the line between authencity and one size fits all should be drawn.  As we all know a good fit is the key to period dress and one size fits all directly conflicts this.  We had some members of our site advocate for skirts and blouses because of the same reasons you pointed out, flexible fit.  However to do this style accurately far outweighed the benefits.  First the fabrics required for a blouse skirt combo were out of our price range.  Second this style meant that not only did our docents have to have the proper fabrics they also had to have good corsets and hoops.  Third they needed the right accessories, again major budget issues.

So we looked at dresses and more importantly wrappers that looked like dresses.  Yes, while we would still have to make some assorted sizes, a wrapper is  pretty flexible.  It can easily be made out of cotton, good for the budget.  It can be used with minimal accessories. Our docents could still use them while they were saving up for hoops and corsets or making corded stays.

To allow for more flexibility in the petticoat department you can search this site for adjustable waist petticoats you will find ways to add flexibility without having to use the bulky elastic. Again this is what we decided use for our site. 

Every site is different, that balance is what your site needs to decide upon.  One of the biggest benefits we have found to being dressed in clothing rather than costumes is the confidence it gives our docents when some little fourth grader comes up and asks, "Is that what a pioneer lady really wore?" They know that they are dressed so     that they can answer, "Yes it is?"

[hanktrent]

And, we are representing hard working, rural people.  So, we do not need hoops for the ladies, nor do we need silk vests for the guys.

I am planning on making skirts, Garibaldi shirts, roped petticoats and a few basic cotton dresses and pinner aprons for the ladies.   For the guys I will be making mostly working shirts and wool vests.  I stop short of making trousers for the guys.  I thought that maybe I could make some nice collars and some neckerchiefs to wear with the dresses, as accessories.  Maybe some type of snoods would be appropriate.

The things I've bolded seem more in the silk-vest, hoop-skirt category, and would give a casual upscale look, what a young lady might wear packing boxes for the Sanitary Fair, supervising the servants in the kitchen, watching the boys playing as a governess, that kind of thing, rather than the first choice for a hard-working rural woman who needs to do the laundry or hoe the garden. At least that's my first thought--others might comment more if they agree or disagree.

You may decide that the one-size-fits-all idea of garibaldi shirts and skirts is more important than giving a period working-class rural look, but it'd be worth making the compromise with knowledge that the look it gives may not be the look you're shooting for.

Also, on the split drawers... May be too much information, but my wife considers them a convenience, rather than a period affectation. Apparently they speed things up when nature calls.

Edited to add: it just hit me--you said mid-century. Do you mean literally within a few years of 1850? Because hoop skirts would be out, but so would Garibaldi shirts. You'd need to be after 1860ish for them.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

[Mrs.Dixon]

You will find that most people here attempt to be as authentic as possible. We want to make clothing not costumes. Costumes are not comfortable, but clothing is. You stated that your group is hard working, rural people. However you want to make Garibaldi waists and skirts. This is an oxymoron due to the fact that this style of clothing is a HIGH fashion item generally for young ladies. The skirts would not have been made out of cotton, but rather wool or silk and there would have been no feeding the chickens in it. You do not have to make fitted bodices, and with work dresses made of cotton, they would have been pleated or gathered anyways. (fitted lining). Rather than present inaccurate information by taking modern shortcuts (or using high fashion styles for hard labor...would you wear a cocktail dress to milk a cow?), try something like this:



This is the construction of a maternity dress, and it works great! I can wear mine when I am not preggo-sauce. Very very adjustable and comfy. Also, the thought of elastic makes me cringe. Elastic is nasty, uncomfortable stuff. It will cut into waist and make the wearer sweat. Also, it really isn't all that adjustable. Honestly, when I borrowed a petticoat that was too big for me, I moved the button. No problem-o. You can also make a waistband and thread a tape through it to make it a little more adjustable.

Ohhh, split drawers...use for convenience sake....nuf said. Honestly, these are way too easy to make and way too intimate of a item to share, in my opinion, than to make some sort of concoction with elastic or such.

As for taking modern shortcuts...I am 22 and found that I dislike any sort of modern shortcut. It is cheap, clunky, and not very pretty. Even if I am making something for modern use, I am more inclined to use period techniques. My modern shortcut is the sewing machine (which is perfectly fine, btw). And hey, you don't need to whip raw edges anyways! It was done, and especially on fabrics that fray, but not always!

I think that as living history reenactors, we have a responsibility to present accurate information to the young and old people who are fascinated by this time period. It would be a falsehood to say, hey, this is what they wore, but know in the back of your head, that they did not.

And no snoods please! They did wear hair nets that were very fine and almost invisible in their hair (unless woven from ribbon, as is sometimes the case) and this would have been worn over styled hair. Easy to make slat bonnets would do nicely! (Liz has a free pattern available that is as easy as pie)

[Mrs.Dixon]

An adjustable back is a possible scenario also:

[Elizabeth]

Loads of dittos with the information above... going the fully period route is generally less cumbersome, less fussy, and easier to move in. The period adjustments will look better on a wider variety of bodies, too. A good cotton print will be great for working class people, as the Garibaldi/etc is definitely more fashionable and done in fine silks/wools/sheer cottons--not working class clothing.

There are diagrams on the adjustable waist on the main site.

[Ms. Jean]

Jehanne, mind telling us where are you located?  I have a tucked petticoat that I don't use much that would be useful in your clothing room.  Others might have things as well.  There are threads here about setting up wardrobe rooms & loaner closets.

Mid-century clothes are comfortable, keep telling the docents this & send 'em here.  During a recent ice cream social I cranked the freezer, moved tables & chairs, and played catch with a kid while wearing corset & hoops.  100 degrees, no problem.

Jean
Route 66

[Jehanne H]

All of your replies are well appreciated!  I thank you all for your considered opinions.

Mrs. Dixon, thank you for that example of an adjustable waist.  I think that I will try that.
The wrappers seem to be an intriguing garment.  I just do not fully understand them. 

We are representing people who work on a canal, on a boat.  The women are doing some fairly heavy and physical work.  Hoops are out of the question, as are bonnets.  They are too dangerous to wear while  being the tiller, the bowman, the one who jumps off of the moving boat to snub the line and the ones who harness up and take care of the mules.  These women are doing a mans job.  They are stepping off a moving 6 ton boat in a narrow lock, and climbing up steep lock walls on ladders that go straight up at 90 degrees for about 10 feet.  They are jumping off of moving boats and scrambling along a narrow race way while tugging heavy, wet ropes.  They are stradling narrow lock arms across the water in order to open and close the wickets with very heavy iron pieces.   They are also poling the boats along the narrow race ways with a very long and heavy pole. The long hems in our dresses sometimes trip us up and threaten to land us in the water. Scurrying up and down different levels of the boat on narrow ladders and steps is tricky, at best. Woe to the one who might get her skirt hem caught in the tall iron posts of the wickets while on a  narrow lock  arm over the water! Bonnets will restrict our side vision, which is very important to have.   So, we have to consider some modern safety guidelines.  They guys are all wearing pants , so this is not a problem for them.

Most of us wear our skirts much shorter than would have been authentic, simply because we do not wish to fall into the canal or trip ourselves up while jumping or climbing.  It is dangerous and it could be very embarrassing.  So, our desire to be authentic comes with some caveats.  Many a dress in the costume room has it's skirt separated from it's bodice by having gotten caught in something.  It is a hazard.  We simply have to make some concessions to safety.  No amount of authenticity is worth risking one's life or health for.
In the real time and place, it is unlikely that the women would be doing some of these things.  In real time, there would be a lock tender who did much of what these women have to do.  So, we are not representing a situation that is purely authentic.  Therefore, I feel free to take some license to innovate, to a degree.

Making corsets for everyone is just out of the question.  Many of the people there are seasonal.  Many are there for only a couple of months.  One of the more permanent ladies has a corset that she says she finds to be very comfortable.  It is her own private garment.  It sounds intriguing, and I want one!  Did ladies put on a corset with the casualness that we dress with a bra?

We are also dealing with people who have to dress up like this as a part of their job.  Most of the modern young ladies do not much like the old fashioned dress.  To try and to convince them to wear a bonnet is futile, no matter the safety issues.  It must be remembered that these are folks who are doing this for a reason that is quite different from a personal interest, or a hobby.

Ok, so snoods are out.  I did read the archived discussions about them.  Are there any suggestions as to how to dress our heads?  Many of us do not have long hair.  We also have to work in the rain, so we sometimes need something to keep the rain off.  Our default covering is the straw hat.

So, hoops are out.  As well as bonnets, anything made of silk, and snoods.

Wrappers, are interesting.  Please direct me to more information about them.  Would those have been considered proper to wear in public?  We ARE in public. This looks like an opportunity to show off the petticoats.  It seems that most pictures I see of them seem to indicate that there is still a lot of poufy to them.  Regardless of being considered to be a casual garment, most seem to be represented as anything but.
  I have a theory about wrappers.  I theorize that  they evolved out of the fact that women outgrew thier dresses and could not get them closed across the belly after repeated pregnancies and age.  So, they opened them up at the bottom.  Then, like happens in the fashion world, it became an entity of it's own.  Just my own speculations.

As far as the time period.  It is a little vague.  We are supposed to be about the 1870's, give or take a few years.  Basically, rural people ,post Civil War and probably not up to the latest fashions.  And, hard working.  Don't forget that part.  And, we have a need for safety.  Being a docent in a museum is a little different from the physically active role that we are playing.  We have to make some concessions for our health and well being.  It is not only a matter of our comfort in the old fashioned garments.

So, the Garibaldi shirts were a formal wear?  I was taking my cue from some of the garment types that are already in the mix.  They seem to be adaptable to sizes such as S,,M,L,XL, which is what I need.  I am planning to make skirts with waist sizes from about 30 to about 48, by going up two inch increments.  We do,many times have a need for some pretty generous sizes.

Can I gather the skirts, or were they always pleated, or gauged?  The only ones that I have made are pleated.  I have a workdress (a round dress?) from a reputable dealer in Gettysburg that I am taking some construction cues from.  I know that there are many things sold in those stores that are questionable.  This one has a reputation for authenticity.  I am constructing the bodice separate from the skirt and then joining the two together.

Thank you all for your learned opinions and sharing your experience!  I promise to do the best that I can.  But, safety is a big issue, and I must concede to the reality.

Wrappers......need to know more.

thanks!

[Paula]

Well first I have to say Wow!  It sounds like you are doing some amazing, atypical representations.  With that in mind, I have a few questions that you may want to consider to see if the would or wouldn't work for your site.  If you have already thought of these things, I'm sorry for the repetition. 

First the styles that you find on this forum normally fall between late 1840's through the mid 1860's.  So for your time period these styles would be very outdated.  You probably can find elements that will work but you will want to look at museum sites to give you a better idea of "your" period. 

Second, as you mentioned it would be most unlikely that women would be performing the jobs you are doing.  So finding documentation on what a woman would wear is not going to be possible.  You might want to look at Bloomer/Reformed dress.  It is a pretty uncommon style of dress but in light of your work, might be worthy the compromise for safety. 

It also sounds like you may want to think about corded stays rather than corsets.  And yes women wore them with the casualness as we were bras 

Others will be along with more to add.

[Elizabeth]

When it's an educational purpose, though, and that's the job--well, there are certain historical realities that need to be in place, for academic integrity. The public deserves history, not fake-lore.

Taking a look at the challenges, there are period solutions:

1: Active working dresses need not skim the ground. Hem to the ankle bones, and wear with petticoats only (2-3) for easier movement (sounds counter-intuitive, but the skirts baffle one another, and move together.)

2: With the slightly shorter skirts, stepping on them becomes less problematic.

3: One-piece dresses can be made with the skirt on its own band if desired, but just having shortened skirts can help eliminate a good portion of the "ripping down" that can happen.

4: Using period adjustment solutions works remarkably well. It's okay to have a generously fitted attached bodice that snugs up; a perfect fit in the shoulder isn't vital, for instance, as a very working class person might have purchased the dress second or third hand, and being clothed is more important than being fashionable.

5: In the interests of covering modern hair and staying safe, look at corded or quilted sunbonnets, not slats... Corded or quilted bonnets give good sun protection for the head, face, and neck/shoulders, but have a flexible brim that can be folded back very easily, all the way to the ears, giving full peripheral vision when that's needed, and adjustable sun coverage when it's not. Plus, you can find engravings and sketches of a woman working the tiller of a canal boat in a corded sunbonnet, so there's even documentary evidence of a similar garment being used in that same employment and activity.

6: A corset (or corded corset) is the 19th century bra. Very, very, very few women would go without some means of torso and bust support. If a woman isn't willing to wear a mid-century supportive undergarment, then going without anything entirely is the other option--this would render a woman into the underclasses for mid-century attitudes, so it is a limiting choice. The vast, vast majority of women undertaking heavy labor wore corsets (or corded corsets); these supportive undergarments act just like a modern weight-lifting belt, supporting the back during hard labor. Those guys at Home Depot? The "weight belts" are modern corsets. If it is not in the budget to have every staff person in a corset, there will be a natural limit to how accurate the overall look is, and how comfortable the clothing is--it works over a corset. Without, it gets problematic. And corsets do need a certain amount of individual fit. With sufficient lead-time, it's possible to make them all in-house, and do alterations to the base corsets each season as needed. VERY large undertaking, but it need not be traumatically expensive... it just takes the time to get started, and keep working over the seasons.

Garibaldis: they're not formal, they're fashionable--actually, pretty casual fashion, but casual as in "don't wear it to church" rather than "worn widely by the lower working classes for working in." With the settings you've described, they'd be inappropriate. Unfortunately, it can be risky to go with what's been done in the past, as research and understanding keeps moving forward. It sounds like the site may have been relying on research that's about 15-20 years out of date with current information. That's very, very, very common, but you're in a great spot to do upgrades.

Wrappers: wrappers have been a separate garment for quite some time, very different from dresses. They're the great-grandma of the house-coat or dressing gown... in the mid-century, there are some really stylish versions for public "consumption" (resort-wear, similar to having a particular lounging set for the spa or cruise ship), and also very work-a-day options for working class at-home use, as a robe or dressing gown--something to slap on for getting breakfast, but before you're fully dressed.

What the ladies are suggesting is to use the adjustable waist options found in many wrappers and maternity dresses to effect a size-jump more easily. When used with regular print cottons, the resulting dress looks just like a dress (no open skirt displaying petticoats, for instance), but can fit more people, more easily.

You can actually use the same fixed waistband with a section of adjustable channels/tapes across the back with petticoats, too, and given the 70s, you'll get a tiny bit more back bulk, too, which is great. You make the petticoat to fit (with gathered skirts--you WANT the bulk in the hip, and pleats are too flat) the largest waist in the series, then add tapes in the back waistband to draw it down for the smaller (2-4") waists. You need only one button position, and you're quite set!

To deal with skirt bulk, gathering, gauging, and pleating are all used. For petticoats, hand gathering is the primo, machined gathering would be a distant third, as it gets quite bulky in the waistband in ways hand-gathering the same circumference does not (due to the mechanics of the stitch.) Dress skirts over those gathered petticoats can be gauged or pleated; either one is whipped to the bodice or skirt band, and that will also help with some of the ripping-down problems--it's more stable, and easier to put back together if it does separate, versus something sewn into a waistband.

Take a peek into the Compendium on the main site, and you'll find some free, printable articles that deal with many of these "putting it to use" topics, including one on The Progressive Questions... it's a series of basic questions that guide the seeker to period solutions, without modern make-do, and can be used in virtually any situation. Starting with "What did the Original Cast do?" sets us up for success every single time.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Thanks for telling us more about your site and the activities that occur there. That helps us understand your needs.

Some practical suggestions from and for the 1860s that could be adapted for post war use.
- The most common garment during the period is a one piece dress.  While atypical from its use during the period, Mrs. Dixon's photos of the wrapper would be one solution for your multiple size issues.  Adjustments like these can usually accommodate changes up to four sizes.  Additionally, wrappers like this one will look exactly like a gathered bodice dress when worn with a belt.  
-  Cut your garments with 1" seam allowances at the shoulders and 2" at the side seams.  Attach the piping at the bodice front and back waistlines separately, then sew the side seam. This will allow adjustments of several inches and sizes.
-  Add skirt lifters to your garments.  Do a search on this forum and you should find several discussions on their use.  They're practical, easy to add to existing or new garments, and inexpensive (less than $2.00 in materials).  You can raise the skirt approximately 9" off the ground when the wearer is on the boat, and drop it to full length when they're on terra firma.
-  Wearing the dresses over a petticoat and a work underskirt will give the desired silhouette without the use of steel crinolines.  The petticoat should be approximately 90"-100" in circumference; the work underskirt approximately 135"-150" in circumference.  The work underskirt can be plaid, striped, checked or patterned, adding practicality.  Put the petticoats on a waistband with multiple buttons and a buttonhole.  You should be able to accommodate an 8" difference in waist measurements without difficulty.  A waistband is sturdier and much more comfortable that a drawstring or elastic.
-  Consider corded bonnets.  The brims on these bonnets can be folded back to permit peripheral vision; fold the brim back into place to protect from the sun and rain.  They're also washable and will stay securely on the head.
-  A properly fitted corset is very comfortable, supports your back and all the garments worn over top of it. Yes, they did put them on as casually as we do a bra.  
-  It's ok to set clothing guidelines that are appropriate for the period for your site and insist that everyone follows them, even volunteers.  It's a bona fide qualification for the job. If they want to work there - with or without pay - they need to abide by the rules.  
-  Use an invisible hair net to keep hair confined and out of the way. You can find them - usually in paper envelopes - at beauty supply stores, drug stores and mega chain stores.  Period hairnets were made from very fine thread or real hair; the modern version works just as well.  
-  During the 1860 skirts are usually gauged or pleated; gathers are less common.  Pleats are the most common use during the 1870s.

A modern solution with a period look that can also be used for 1870s.
-  Make a gathered bodice using the drawstring adjustments in the wrapper photos. Use wider seam allowances at the shoulders and the side seams. Cut the bodice so that is several inches longer than the waistline.  
-  Construct pleated skirts with multiple sets of hook-and-eye closures.
-  Tuck the bodice into the skirt and add a belt (again, with multiple closures).  It will look like a gathered bodice dress and cover 4 sizes.

Just some food for thought.

Regards,
Carolann (typing the same time as Liz)

[Mrs.Dixon]

Ahhh, I do not know much about the 70s so I will bow out of this convo.  

[Paula]

Please ignore my last open mouth insert foot post  I too will bow out and let those wiser than me give advice.

[Maggie Koenig]

I have some experience making dresses for museum staff who don't like period clothing....

-One, if its required for their job, they will wear it.  I have one staff member who is not afraid to tell me how much she hates her dress but she wears it because she has two.

-We adapted to an earlier period that would look halfway decent without a ton of period underpinnings.  We shifted from 1830's that absolutely needs petticoats and stays to 1800-1810 where they can get a passable silhouette without period underpinnings.  Am I thrilled about the lack of undies...no.  However, the current museum management was not in a position to do much about such a vast overhaul in costume standards.

-Period fabrics vs. modern fabrics that look "old timey" will take you light years in the right direction.  The old bad, sort of 1830's dresses I replaced were all modern floral calicos that looked like something your grandmother might have made curtains out of.  The new dresses were all made with documented prints.

-Adapt the styles without compromising period lines.  The dresses I made all had period necklines, hem lines sleeve lines and basic fit.  The concessions include hook and eye closures (not done that early),  few snaps, and a drawstring under the bust.  However, the basic lines of the dress has as much period construction as I could possibly pull off.  I was also able to conceal pockets in the side seams.  I was informed the docents had to have pockets.

-You have to get your people used to working in the clothing.  I have a few docents who complain about their skirts being too long to get up the stairs, they claim they trip.  However, I can carry boxes upstairs without a problem because I know how to move in long skirts.  Don't assume long skirts mean dangerous and problematic.  After all, women have done all manner of heavy work in long, ankle length, skirts for several thousand years.  Its only those born after about 1920 that have no idea that they aren't something that means you can't move.  While they are in training have them move around in old skirts so they get some practice.

[Elizabeth]

Dittos with Maggie. Big ones.

There comes a certain point at which, if docents and staff are unwilling to wear accurate clothing, it is less historically problematic to create a totally modern uniform (with logo Ts or other modern shirt styles, modern hats, etc) and require one or the other. Visitors deserve a clear historic message.

[Ms. Jean]

Is this more accurate for 1870:

http://www.pastpatterns.com/905.html

Although I was thinking polo-and-khakis at the mention of ladders....

Jean
Route 66

[hanktrent]

Dittos with Maggie. Big ones.

There comes a certain point at which, if docents and staff are unwilling to wear accurate clothing, it is less historically problematic to create a totally modern uniform (with logo Ts or other modern shirt styles, modern hats, etc) and require one or the other. Visitors deserve a clear historic message.

What she said.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

[Jessamyn]

Is this more accurate for 1870:

http://www.pastpatterns.com/905.html

Jean
Route 66

Well, that's really even more out of date in the other direction. The 1880s shoulders are very high and tight, the body is snug, and the details are small and fussy compared to 1870s. Early 1870s especially still have the low shoulder and coat sleeve from the '60s, with a sort of soft, round fit through the body. Wash dresses (in practical cotton prints) could be princess cut or two-piece. The two-pieces are a bit like the pattern you posted but with the differences I mentioned above, plus the body is a very long basque.

The link below is to a fashionable summer print dress, but it shows the overall shapes being used. Delete the ruched overskirt and some trims and make it from calico and you have a good early 1870s wash dress.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Three-piece_summer_day_dress,_United_States,_1870-1874,_cotton_tabby_-_Patricia_Harris_Gallery_of_Textiles_%26_Costume,_Royal_Ontario_Museum_-_DSC09426.JPG