Fabric Suitability Inquiry

[Mike S.]

I have some yardage of a blue/grey 100% medium weight cotton that I'm assuming is a sort of semi herringbone weave fabric. I'm tempted to make a late 1850's to early 1860's men's day wear vest out of it, but wonder if it is a fabric weave that was available at that time.

My knowledge of period fabrics is usually quite well honed, but this one leaves me a bit hesitant.

Any input would be much appreciated:

[Chip]

Herringbone weave fabric was mass produced in England from the 1830s on.

However, it was commonly produced in wool as primarily a material for coats and capes. (Cotton was not considered to be a good material for dealing with cold weather.)

So, if a gentleman wanted a matching herringbone vest to go with a coat, it would more than likely have been produced in the same woolen fabric.

Yes, it would have been a fabric weave of that period, but my take on this is that it would not have been a common COTTON weave of that period.

[Mike S.]

Cheers. I appreciate the historical origins of herringbone as I confess that I was unaware that weave dated back that far. I too have yet to find reference to it being offered by that name in wool, let alone cotton. I know of no extant garments of the period made from it either.  Thus my inquiry.

Regarding cotton vests in general, a quick perusal of period ads and fashion periodicals list a veritable cornucopia of cotton, linen, and silk fabrics being sold specifically for use in men's vests. I've found reference to Cottonade, Nankeen, Grass Cloth, Marseilles, Drilling, 100% cotton Jean etc. offered specifically for men's vests.

The conclusion one draws from these detailed inventories of  yard goods being hawked by those advertisements is that there does appear to have been wider spread use of cottons and linens for vests than we seem inclined within the living history circles to reproduce.

I wonder what spawned this disconnect between those period sources, and the present prevailing attitudes that almost exclusively call for silk or wool, wool, and more wool for this application. That would make an interesting topic all its own.

One would think that Cotton/linen vests would have been quite popular in the balmy Southern summers, as were coats of the same.

[Jessamyn]

I don't think the issue is whether there were cotton vests (of course there were), but rather whether there were cotton vests (or cotton fabrics in general) in that weave. Chip seems to be saying that his research shows herringbone wools only.

[Mike S.]

Cheers. Lacking concrete evidence of herringbone weave fabric usage for men's vests of the period, wool or cotton,  I've decided to abandon this and stick to old faithful options.

I appreciate the input greatly.