Underthings for off the shoulder dresses

[Heidi Hollister]

I've made an adorable off the shoulder gown for my dear 1 year old daughter for this season, but I've just realized I have no idea what to put under it.  In my perusal of original images I don't see the chemises peeking out of those styles.  I see them on other styles but not that kind.  What about stays?  How do you keep the petticoats up without the shoulder straps showing?  I know some of you have done perfect little off the shoulder dresses that I just dream about at night.  What did you do to keep the underthings from flashing?  I know it's perfectly period to have them showing, but on this particular dress I want them to be invisible as much as possible.

[rrbeers]

Heidi, are you talking about a boat neck or a truly off-the-shoulder? I made a boat necked dress for DD this year and didn't have any problems with the straps of her stayed-petticoat showing.  I did make sure to attach the straps at an angle so they don't show.



IF you're talking about a truly off-the-shoulder dress like this...:

http://pinterest.com/pin/116741815310671395/

...then I will be happy to learn along with you how to do that! 

[Heidi Hollister]

This is a really truly off the shoulder dress with barely there cut away sleeves.  I wish I could post pictures, but my camera decided not to work except with the lens which requires you to be a half a mile away to take a picture.

[Heidi Hollister]

The bodice and sleeves are almost JUST like this image...

[Malinda Byrne]

Heidi,
It looks to me in the image you posted that there are ribbons tied around the dress sleeves, chemise, stay straps, etc.  that hold everything in place.  I believe that this was mentioned somewhere on here as an option.  There was also mention of these barrette like clips to serve the same purpose.  With sleeves like you've described, ribbons could work.  Hopefully a search will bring up the previous discussions. 
Malinda

[Malinda Byrne]

Here's a few previous threads where we talk about the ribbons holding the underpinnings to the dress. 
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=7631.0
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=5.0
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=5017.0

I haven't found the post that mentions clips yet. 
Malinda

[Paula]

Melinda, I get what you are saying but what about all those amazing recreations that Stephanie makes.  How are they staying up it doesn't look like there are ties.  Sorry just curious.

[Malinda Byrne]

I don't know, Paula.  Maybe Stephanie will chime in and tell us.  Her daughters are a bit older though. 
Malinda

[Stephanie Brennan]

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=5846.msg86270#msg86270

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=6074.0
  
I think the first post is the one Malinda is referring to.  Unfortunately the images are gone.

The second post shows a dress with ties incorporated on the inside of the dress.

Paula-
     Thank you   Her chemises  have a button front placket and we can unbutton them to make the neck wider. Other chemises are made to have fancy sleeves to hang out from the bottom of a short sleeve dress  ( more of a 50's fashion). Cutting the dress neckline to the shape of the chemise neckline is another tactic that helps. In any case you may still need to tack the pieces together which is easier to do before they put on the dress.

   Not every child wore a chemise, there are several options when dressing a child such as this-

http://www.the-gatherings-antique-vintage.net/store/Victorian-Edwardian-Childrens-Clothing-Apparel/1840-1850-Children-Handstitched-Pantalettes-Underwear-Garment/prod_612.html

                                                                          Hope that helps-  Stephanie

[Heidi Hollister]

My biggest question is, how do the petticoats stay up without stays that hang off the shoulder?  How do your girls do it Stephanie?  Both Paula and I discussed this this morning and your name came up instantly as someone who does awesome off the shoulder dresses and yet no underthings seem to ever show.  Alanna is a little stick bug and a wiggle worm to boot.  I doubt I can get a petticoat to stay on if its not attached firmly to SOMETHING and the over the shoulder stays that I had planned to make would show terribly and that just doesn't seem right for this dress.

What do your girls do Stephanie?  Do their petticoats stay up by themselves or do you have some secret way of keeping the stays on without ever showing?

ETA: upon reviewing the little dress I posted, the sleeves aren't JUST like that... those are tied up with string to create that effect... On Alanna's dress, it's open at the top of the shoulder and cut shwooping away, if that makes sense.  Anyway, there's just a tiny 1/2 inch band across her shoulder so no where to hide straps.

[Stephanie Brennan]

   When the kids were little I used a second shirt and a set of stays with elastic waist drawers. The petticoats were basted to the waistband of the dress ( a period solution). I would use bands, ribbons, or pins to keep the shirt shoulders in place.  As the girls have gotten older it has been less of a problem. The answer has been in the cut of the chemise and the increasing fit of the dress.
   
     CDV's and paintings often show younger children with a shoulder off to the side or a bodice sitting very low on the chest. I really don't think this was a everyday occurrence but the creation of sentimentally and romance which this period hoped to portray.


In this photo the dress is identical but the older girl's neckline sits higher than the younger girl. The older girl has a tie on the shoulder that is undone( looks like angel wings)The younger girl has both shoulders tied up making a very slim shoulder line.

     One answer for chemise or shirt not to show is by control at the shoulder area with ties on top or underneath( like the above linked example) and second would be the cut of chemise or shirt by using slim sleeves and wide neck.
  The second question I think needs to be addressed is  the stick figure. How does the dress stay up if we have it dangling off both shoulders?  I'm not sure it does, I think there are photos and drawings then real life. Many infant dresses have draw strings incorporated in the neckline to help regulate neckline width.

                                  Stephanie

[Heidi Hollister]

Thank you Stephanie.  I basted her petticoat into her waistband like you said and it worked out fine.  We did a practice run by going to the grand opening of our museum's Mother's Day exhibit (designed and executed by our own dear Micaila) in period attire, and going out to Old Spaghetti Factory later in the same.  The only problem we had was keeping her drawers up.  They were elastic waisted numbers made for someone much bigger than she originally, but then everyone seems to be bigger than she in the girth department.

[Stephanie Brennan]

  Pictures  please 
                                       Stephanie

[rrbeers]

What she said ^^^^ 

[Heidi Hollister]

I don't have pictures that show off the dresses at their best, but here we are at the Grand Opening with Micaila.



Oh and yes, the ghostly figure behind us without a face IS what I wore while I was pregnant with the two of them.  She's now part of the Motherhood and Maternity exhibit for the time being.

[rrbeers]

Oh you all look lovely, lovely, lovely!!! Thanks for sharing pictures!

[Muriel Carbiener]

Wonderful photo of all of you.  Was this at The End of The Oregon Trail Interpretive Center?  I hope the babies will still fit into their lovely dreses for your later trip.

Muriel

[Stephanie Brennan]

What a wonderful looking group of people. Thanks for sharing.        Stephanie