being cinched in a corset

[Julie]

I have been reading and reading about corsets, and like a lot of other things in the civil war era(or any subject for that matter), it seems that you can find quite a bit of conflicting opinion. There seems to be quite a lot of really good info here, so I wanted to ask here before getting or making one.

I don't have any resistance to wearing a corset, but I absolutely do to being cinched into one. I studied extensively about the lymphatic system when I was contemplating using that modality of treatment in my business at that time, and what I found out about that system of the body really changed the way I looked at how some of my regular clothes fit. I stopped wearing even regular bras at the "usual" tightness unless I am doing a specific actiivity like working out where I need the extra support for short periods of time. I wear them very loose around the middle now,and I even stopped wearing them altogether whenever that is feasible. I don't wear anything tight anywhere. After all the health issues I have been dealing with, it just isn't worth it to me. I spent 11 years working as a firefighter and had to wear a tight sport bra for 26 hours at a time, every third day. I cringe now when I think of what that did to my system.

Some of the info I found on corset fit said they do not need to be worn tight, nor should they be. it said they are shaping, not cinching. Then when I was in Gettysburg I ran into a period seamstress there who said I should go to General's Lady website to buy a corset, she said she made one and would never make another one. She didn't elaborate as to why she felt like that, if it was difficult or she just didn't enjoy it. SO I looked there and the website said that when they get measurements they make the corset to bring in the waist, hips, etc, a certain amount of inches. I don't recall exactly how many inches that was. SO according to them, it is defintely cinching.

I want to be accurate, and wearing a corset is definitely a part of that. I'm not willing to be cinched into one for hours, or for a day at a time. Is there a  middle ground? Can I wear it in a healthy way, and still be period correct? Thanks!! Julie

[Karen M]

The idea of being cinched tightly into a corset is a myth.  It was strictly used for support and you should wear it so that you can breathe normally and not feel any shortness of breath.  If it is made correctly, it shouldn't cause any discomfort to wear.  You should have it carefully fitted by someone who knows what they are doing.  There are guidelines as to how far apart the back edges should be when it is laced up but there is nothing that says it should reduce your figure by a certain amount.  One of the reasons behind a corset was that so many of the dresses were closely fitted and a corset assured that  your figure had the same measurements every time you put your dress on.  (Kind of like Spanx for the 19th century.  LOL!)  If you gained a noticeable amount of weight over a short period of time, obviously the corset would suck it in until you could alter the dress.

Just let common sense be your guideline and you should be fine.

[Jessamyn]

(typing at the same time as Karen)...

The short answer is, you absolutely do not need to be cinched to make a corset work for you or give you the right shape for the period.

Many of us who have thin upper bodies don't "reduce" with a corset at all. (The more flesh you have, the less stressful it is to move it around. Bones don't give so easily, even floating ribs!) In midcentury clothes my corseted waist measure is the same as uncorseted, but the clothes wouldn't fit my uncorseted body, because the corset smoothes the surface of the torso, it arranges the bust in a certain way, and it keeps me from folding up at the middle even when I bend.

If you feel that even a corset that did not reduce but which kept you from bending was too restrictive, you could make a corded corset instead. If you do a search on this site you will find plenty of information on them. But there is definitely a difference between restriction and support. One of the things about a corset is that the supporting work rests on the hips, rather than hanging from the shoulders and strapping under the bust like a bra.

Finally, keep in mind that a corset should be worn with 2-4 inches of "spring" at the back - in other words, the edges are not laced tightly together but are apart several inches, which allows the laces to flex. A corset with a 24" waist measure - in other words, that is 24" around at the waist when closed - is meant to be worn at 26" or even 28". So when young ladies in the 19th century bragged about their 18"-waist corsets, few of them were actually wearing them at that dimension. And midcentury corsets should not be tight through the hips at all; that was something that happened with later corsets.

[Maggie Koenig]

Another thing to consider when looking into a corset is that they support the bust.  They are not supposed to put enough pressure on the girls to push things up and over.  They should actually be loose in the hips for our era.  If its tight you don't have enough room when you sit and you end up with the girls under your chin.  The waist should be comfortable without feeling restrictive.  I reduce my waist about 4" but my corset is made for me and I'm fluffy so it doesn't feel like I'm being cut in half in the middle.  It does need to be just at snug in order to keep it from slipping down as you wear it, but no more so than if you were wearing a modern shapper. 
    If you really are concerned about the fit of your corset I would highly recommend having one custom made for you by someone who is experienced in corset making (not just a local seamstress or someone thats made a few) who can do an in person fittings.  If you can sew a straight seam taking the corset making class from Carolann Schmitt at the Genteel Arts Academy in Gettysburg will give you the custom fit you need.  She has worked with people of every imaginable figure and need including women with special needs due to a mastectomy or other medical issues.   

[Julie]

Wow, thank you! That makes me very happy. I didn't want to have to make a choice between looking right, and "feeling" good. I can do both. I am not really sure how to go about getting one. I don't plan to be back in Gettysburg until way later this year so I would have to do quite a few re-enactments before being able to go to a class with Carolann. I hadn't noticed Maggie that you are from Emmittburg! SO close to my former home! We come right through there on our way unless we come up closer to Harper's Ferry. ANyway, corsets. My dressmaker's guide should be here soon so I can check out the chapter on corsets. I want to make my own things, but I want it to fit well and be comfortable, so maybe someone else should do it for me. I am starting to wonder if I went backk and read the Gen Lady site if I read the adjustment on measurements right. Maybe they make it "that much" bigger, not smaller. I will have to go back and recheck.

I also have a concern about my dress fitting with a corset, and chemise under it too. When I bought it at the sutler, I did buy it a little bit big in the waist, thank goodness, not because I knew I should,but because I needed a dress, and they only had one a bit too big in the waist for me. It was hidden under the belt anyway. Problem is the bust is just enough, and i mean just enough. I am really afraid that when I put anything under it, it will not fit anymore. And I could guarantee there is not enough seam allowance anywhere to do adjustments. I don't know what I will do if it won't fit. I wish the sutler lady had told me about making sure I had room for my underclothes. I didn't know ANYTHING when I went there.

An artist friend of ours who paints civil war paintings wants to use my husband and I to stand in for some of his paintings very soon, and I am rushing to get the petti made to have the look right under the skirt, but without a corset, how right can it look. I can get him to paint it in correctly by a picture if need be, I guess. But if I get a corset and the dress doesn't fit anymore, you can see how this could continue on for awhile. Geez. Never go shopping without any knowledge whatsoever. 

Thanks for all the wonderful advice, it is really appreciated! Julie

[Dana Repp]

Julie,
Don't stress about how things will fit until you know what you're dealing with. We've all made inexperienced decisions when starting this hobby and there are plenty of creative folks here who have "been there, done that" that can help you make some corrections. 

And just think, you may be fortunate enough to have a corset that just reshapes you enough to make everything fit well and keep you comfortable.

[Julie]

That's true Dana, I should keep a positive mindset, and maybe it will fit even bettter! Julie

[E L Watkins-Morris]

"Cinched" gives visions of being saddled...

[Isabel Clare]

"Cinched" gives visions of being saddled...

And being a horsewoman I know how tightly those girths are clinched!

First time posting here, a brand newbie to the website and to re-enacting! I had a similar question and glad it's been answered!

Living in Australia there are not really many (if any) re-enacting events such as the ones everyone here gets to do (you all make me super jealous). Anyway, I volunteer at an Open Air Museum called Sovereign Hill and we depict the daily life and going ons of the Gold-fields and Ballarat town during the early years of the Gold Rush 1850-1860s. Most of my costume is provided by the museum, but I want to start making my own.

Now, on-one really wears corsets, but I want to wear one. Number one cause I want to be dressed authenticity (even if I have a few questions on the authenticity of my dress material and the fact it buttons up the back...) and the number two reason if after a day doing work and walking around my lower back and hips are KILLING me. I think this is because I have an ill fitting crinoline (it sits too low on my hips) and I have no back support.

My question is, as a novice sewer (and I mean, really novice, I've just begun the arduous task of making my under-things) how difficult is it to actually sew your own corset? Or would I be better off having someone make one for me?

[Heidi Hollister]

As far as the difficulty of making a corset, I don't think they are as hard as they sound.  Think of it as a very close fitting bodice and it sounds less scary.  That being said I have wanted to avoid making corsets myself.  As some highly respected members of this board will tell you "Corsets can smell fear." 

Get someone by your side who has had a little experience and you'll find that it's not as hard as it looks.  There are a few things should do to make sure you get a good fit.

Make a mock up first.  You do NOT want to cut into your good fabric only to find that it's not going to fit you well.

Alter the mock up until it fits you perfectly.

Use the mock up as a pattern for your corset.

Just keep thinking of it as a close fitting bodice with boning and the corset will not catch wind of your fear and you will be able to take it by surprise and win!

[melissamary]

I'm just jumping in on the fun here.  I already have my corset but I'm making stays for other time periods.  What's the best fabric to use for a mock-up of a corset?

[Dana Repp]

If you really want to make your own corset and have no one to help you I suggest getting the video from Laughing Moon. I watched it and was able to make my own.

Melissa, you can use twill for your mock up. I used a cotton canvas material I had laying around.

[Julie]

I was reading the dressmaker's guide, and I am intrigued by the idea of a corded corset. Anyone know anything about those? SOunds....comfy.  Julie

[Julie]

throwing this off-topic ? in here since we are conversing. I wanted to post a picture of myself in my dress as I have it right now, and have the whole look critiqued. My husband and I are going to be standing for a painting as a favor for an artist friend who needs a civil war era couple in one of his paintings. is there a place in the forum for something like that? I searched through, and didn't really see a good place. Julie

[Maggie Koenig]

I would go ahead and start a new thread asking for advice for improvements.

[Elaine Robeck]

Julie,

I started as a novice sewist a few year ago (is there a word for less than novice?  I had to look up on the internet how to thread the sewing machine.)  In about  6 weeks I had outfitted myself and three children from the skin out.  While I DON'T recomend that because I think I was sewing at least 6 hours a day, it demonstrates that it can be done.   

[Isabel Clare]

Julie,

I started as a novice sewist a few year ago (is there a word for less than novice?  I had to look up on the internet how to thread the sewing machine.)  In about  6 weeks I had outfitted myself and three children from the skin out.  While I DON'T recomend that because I think I was sewing at least 6 hours a day, it demonstrates that it can be done.   

Elaine, you give me hope that I will one day be able to sew my own dresses! I'm still at the stage of cutting out all my underthings, with my mum helping me! But I think I'm going to start with an apron, then it wont matter so much if my lines are wonky or I can't gather it all nice and neatly.

And there is a word for less than a novice, it's Isabel Clare, because I don't even know how to turn my sewing machine on! Although we have my great Aunts treadle powered singer from the late 1800s so if worst comes to worst I can go with that...I at least know how to make that one go!

[Heidi Hollister]

I have not worn a corded corset myself as I tend to prefer a little more support, but I have several friends who swear by them.  I take that back, I DID make a corded corset for my maternity corset and I actually wished I had a few bones in it at least in the back to give more support, but that is a somewhat different situation.

Isabel Clare, have no fear, many of us on this board started out in less than novice status.  I still keep my first attempt to show beginners that we all have to start somewhere.  Mine isn't even assembled well.  You talk about wonky seams?  Mine frequently didn't even connect with the fabric, or tucked in extra bits of fabric that didn't belong.  I didn't even finish the attached collar so it frayed everywhere.  The hem was over long, not pressed and I tried to fix the length without cutting so I folded it up again.  Some places the old hem hung down like a poorly made tuck, other places it stayed hidden where it was supposed to be.  It was awful.  You can do better than that your first try I am sure.  Take courage, we're all here to support you.