Question about reducing bulk on the chemise

[Amy D.]

I'm using the free chemise pattern, and I cut a section out of the back for reducing bulk.  I need to gather the excess fabric now and topstitch a covering band... but do I do that on the inside of the chemise, or the outside? 

[Paula]

Amy- I have the band on the outside of my chemise because it felt smoother that way.  But I've also been know to have my chemise on inside out when I'm in a hurry getting dressed 

[Elizabeth]

The instructions in Godey's indicate it goes on the outside, but you could do a duplicate strap on the inside. Since it happens below the corset level, the seam is not pressed into your skin.

The gathering ends up laid flat on top of the smooth bit, so you'll have just a tiny straight raw edge on the inside; you could just hem that flat if you need an additional finish.

[Meg B]

This is probably a dopey question, but I figure it's better to ask than to wing it and have to start over...

In the Dressmaker's Guide, the instructions say to make a vertical cut down the center back, then to make a 4" horizontal cut at the bottom, forming a T. Now there are two large flaps down the center back on either side of the cut. I *think* what happens next is that I draw these flaps together to form a vertical seam up the CB so that the two ends of the horizontal cut are now together at the base of the vertical seam (badly worded, hopefully you know what I mean). Do I then trim away the extra few inches of flap and fell the CB seam before drawing up the gathers along the horizontal cut and covering it with the little band?

I guess I'm not sure whether/when/how to trim away what seems like all the excess bulk that is supposed to be removed with this procedure. Also, should I do the alteration to the back of the chemise before attaching the sleeves?

[Ms. Jean]

Disclaimer: I am an Expert Soccer Mom

Sounds like you have figured out the chemise back.  Yes, most of the extra fabric from the T is cut off, the T closed by a run&fell seam, and the fullness gathered in & covered by a band.

I have done this prior to the sleeves and definitely prior to the neckband!  Your chemise will look just like the drawing when you're finished.

Jean
Route 66

[Elizabeth]

Yes. You'll then end up with about 8" of "extra" at the base of the new seam, to be gathered down flat. You can do the alteration either before or after attaching sleeves.

[Meg B]

Thanks Elizabeth and Jean! I was having trouble visualizing the process but now that I am finished with it, it seems obvious. I took a couple of photos that I'll link up here later in case anyone else gets stuck.