Topstitching for vest

[Julie]

I am ready to topstitch on a men's military style vest. I am planning on stitching around the collar, around armholes and down front. Is this correct? Also should the stitches themselves be tiny, short, or longer, and should the line be more solid, or spaced, or does this matter at all in terms of authenticity. Thanks!!! Julie

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Julie,

You'll find quite a bit of variation in topstitching styles.  Generally speaking, the topstitching runs all around the fronts and collar.  Armscyes are stitched in front and sometimes all around.  The stitching can be one row just on the edge, or off the edge (about 1/4" back), or two rows with one on the edge and one off (back a bit further in this case).   Stitch length should be appropriate for the thickness of the material.  The fine silk vests I've seen have been stitched quite closely (maybe 20 stitches per inch), but this is too close for heavier wools.  I don't think I've seen an original that was topstitched by hand, so can't comment on how that might be different.

Thanks,

Jim Ruley

[Julie]

Thanks Jim. The vest is jeanswool in the front and linen in the back and lined. SO that gives me a good idea of how to do it. I will let hubby decide if he wants one or two rows of stitching. ALmost done, thank goodness.  Julie

[Julie]

Just about done with the topstitching. Just made one row about 1//4" back. If he wants another row, he will have to wait awhile while I do some other projects. I have been sewing in the evening and have it just about done. Next will be the buttonholes, when the topstitching is done. J