pleated hem detail

[BethT]

Greetings!

I want to make a gown (silk; I'm finally cutting into that amazing lavender silk with the thin black stripe that a few ladies bought) and I saw this original.  It's a ball gown, possibly with two bodices (I don't remember how much silk I bought in the first place, so I'll have to see) the hem will be a bit off the ground.  Do you think this will pick up dirt like crazy?  This original looks like a 'I'm a fine lady going on a trip out of town' gown to me.


http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-01Sjubgp-IA/T2p2ZsnfP6I/AAAAAAAAB5c/PB2vT_gP9pc/s1600/70_xl_AC01063.jpg

Link is to a large version so you can actually see the trim....

If I do this trim, hem, whatever, do you think I should hem the gown like usual, and then attach the trim?  Should I incorporate the trim INTO the hem (i.e. right sides together, affix hem trim to hem, right sides together install hem facing, turn, press, leave hem trim hanging down?  Also, do you think doubling the silk would be all right or would it hang crazily?

All these things I've been thinking about.  Thinking about making a mock-up in miniature for my sister's doll to see what happens.

Any suggestions, conversation would be welcomed!

-Elizabeth

[Trish B]

Looking at a close-up, I think attaching the trim the way you described would give the look, but I would roll the hem seam  a little more to the inside so that there is a bit of pleat hanging loose above where it peeks out from the bottom edge of the skirt. The inverted part of the pleats does not appear to be snug to the fold of the skirt hem. It would have a softer look that way, more of a layered look. Also, I would stitch the edge of the hem facing to the skirt lining to give the smooth look the bottom of the skirt has in the original. Please post pics if you do this outfit!!   trish B.

[Jessamyn]

I agree that the original looks as if the pleats are caught in the hem at the top and free at the bottom, but I also think that would wear very badly (notice the dingy and raveling places on the pleats, even after conservation!). I'd be inclined to add a faced band of silk behind the pleats, and attach a wool tape to its hem - not wrapping the hem but the style where it's laid on flat to the back side of the facing and extending ju-u-u-ust beyond the end of the pleats. It would still leave the pleats free at the bottom but provide a buffer.

[E L Watkins-Morris]

What collection does this dress belong to?

[Beth Chamberlain]

What collection does this dress belong to?

Kyoto Costume Institute, http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/detail_70_e.html.

Beth

[Joanna Jones]

Beth, how did you copy that image?   

[Beth Chamberlain]

Kyoto has made it hard to save images  You can grab the jpeg url if you look at the page source and you can copy/save the image from that static jpeg.  http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/photos/70_xl_AC01063.jpg

Beth (but not the one you were asking  _

[BethT]

Hehe, thanks ladies! 

I think you can copy and paste from my larger image (the size is the same as the one I saved) and I cannot remember if that was one that I 'snipped' or if I saved it from somewhere else.  I thought it was from the Met.....but I didn't label it....in my archives it's labeled as an XL in the code, so I think it was a file you could open up in different sizes.

Jessamyn that is a BRILLIANT idea about the hem-tape/facing.  If I understand you correctly, that would leave two layers hanging down; the pleated outer layer and the inner layer with the hem tape?  Because it's a dancing dress it's going to be shorter than I usually make, so I thought it would be ok....and I REALLY want to do the pleating....but that would make things a lot more practical if I can swing it.

Do you think it will look odd, with the hem tape peaking out?  I'd probably leave as little as possible hanging down below.  You know, I think I'd not trap the second layer behind in the hem facing, because that was I could change the protection part when it gets too ragged. YAY!!!!  I do so love when people tell me things that set off light-bulbs in my brain!!!

Trish, good idea with the lap-over bit.  I do want it to look layered!!! 

[Jessamyn]

I don't think it would look funny. Since I don't know of a source for lavender wool tape, I'd use black - it'll mostly disappear into the shadows under your skirt, and it'll coordinate with the black stripe in your silk!

[Joanna Jones]

Thanks, Beths!