Fabric Question

[Audra Spanfellner]

Dear Gentlemen,
   I am embarking into untrodden territory...men's clothing! ) I have a friend who I have finally convinced to come to an event to me but he is still unsure if he wants to dress or just be a spectator. Please keep in mind that he has never been to a reenactment before and doesn't know anything about what goes on at one. I am trying my hardest to let me sew him an outfit of clothes but i found out something interesting the other day. He is allergic to wool! So now I would like to have non wool options to show him.

First I'm thinking I can use cotton twill for trousers correct? This will be a cool weather event so I think that would be better than linen if it appropriate.
Second cotton shirt and drawers. I thinking it would be best to match his impression to mine and I usually do lower to middle working class southern, rural. So is a squares and rectangles shirt okay?
Third what about a vest? Can I use cotton twill again? Anyone have a pattern?
Finally, does he have to have a coat? He may never come to an event again and I am financing this endeavour and while I know I can sell the clothes if he doesn't think this is for him I don't want to spend a ton of money.

Thank you so much for your help! Any advice on things I'm forgetting would be wonderful!!

[Marta Vincent]

Audra, the twill will be fine for trousers.  The squares shirt is not 'technically' correct for the '60's, but it's quick, easy & pretty cheap, so I'd go ahead & use it anyway. A vest (and trousers) can be made of twill, or corduroy. Quickest & easiest authentic style would be a collarless one.  In this era, the collar goes all the way around (does not stop at the shoulder seam) and I don't know what patterns are available.  The collarless ones can be lined or unlined in front and the edges bound.  Finish the fronts completely then sandwich between the back outer & lining (put in the belt too) and then stitch around the back leaving the neck open. turn thru the neck & whipstitch the neck to finish.  (Period method - dead easy!)

Instead of worrying about a jacket or lack of one, you can make him an over shirt of heavy, rough linen, or a sturdy cotton fabric.  It's a good working impression look, will keep him warm and re-sell well if he decides this is not for him.  If you make the overshirt, you might be able to get away without the vest....

The last few pics in this album show my dh & a friend in their over shirts. Dh's is in wool jean & the other is linen. http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee86/ParasolQueen/Civilian%20Men/

[Ms. Jean]

Also, use the Search box for wool allergy.  There are different levels/types -- a wool overshirt may be just fine for your friend.

Wool quality can be the issue, as in the sufferer is reacting to something stuck to the sheep & not the wool itself.

Having a simple man's outfit around does sound like a good idea, best wishes on your project!  If your friend decides "no, thanks" just keep the outfit for that 2-year-old....

Jean
Route 66

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Audra,

  Welcome to the wonderful world of men's tailoring!  You can find a little construction advice here:

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=6577.0

  With this disk, you can draft all the patterns you will need (except shirts):

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=6454.0

  While "squares and rectangles" shirts were out of fashion, I think you'll find they continued to be worn, and that "homemade" shirts were often made this way.

Hope this helps,

Jim Ruley

[Audra Spanfellner]

Thank you so much for all your replies! They have helped so much!

Marta: I hadn't thought about an overshirt. I really like that idea instead of a vest and I think he might be comfortable wearing it. Plus it would come together really fast. You said it could be made of heavy cotton? Locally I can get natural colored canvas (it's not the really really heavy stuff) or that blue striped ticking. Can I use either of those? Or would I need to order something on the internet? Suggestions?

Jean: Thanks for suggesting that. I didn't think a lot of people had this problem but it's fairly common I guess. I'm pretty sure his is a true severe allergy. He told me he broke out in hives! Ick!!

Mr. Ruley: Thank so much for all those links!! That is awesome and really going to help! And I just may be contacting you soon if the convincing goes along well!!

Okay, so I think I'm going to with a squares and rectangle shirt (since I have a pattern and I know how to make one), a heavy overshirt, and trousers in cotton twill. It's only going to be October in the event we are looking at going to so not too cold. Usually 70s during the day and maybe 50s or 40s at night. I don't think he will be cold in those layers.

I think I will try scaling up my mechanic's cap pattern for something for him to wear on his head. Now what about shoes? Reproductions are out of the question. He has some modern work boots. Could those work for one weekend? Or do I need to look for a cheap alternative? Suggestions?

MTA: Does the shirt need to be white or can it be patterned? I think I read in one of the other threads that is you are wearing an overshirt the other shirt needs to be white. Is this true? I can do either, I just wanted to ask.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Both regular shirts and "over-shirts" have been seen in patterns. Solid white was the most common... but patterns were popular too. Like women's dresses, we don't see "regular" shirts in solid color dyed cotton.

Over-shirts were most common in wool, domet flannel (also wool), and linen... (I've not read of cotton over-shirts... but that just means I haven't come across them yet, not that they didn't exist)
A place with reasonable linen: http://www.fabric-store.com/first.php?goto=fabric_type&menu=f&fabric_type=1

If you think he will get particularly cold in October, you might consider a canton flannel under-shirt and a linen over-shirt for an insulating system that doesn't use wool...
A place with reasonable canton flannel: http://www.nickoftime.net/c-390-solid-fancy-canton-flannel-bottom-weight-woven-fabrics.aspx
For a thicker canton flannel "regular" shirt, you might consider leaving it "un-cuffed" as shown in this pattern: http://stores.gallarockpatterns.com/-strse-29/galla-rock%2C--uncuffed%2C/Detail.bok
The rest of that pattern is a simple "squares" pattern, so the pattern you have can be adapted by leaving off the cuff, tapering the sleeve piece from scye to wrist, and finishing the sleeve with a facing. For the chest linings, you would want to use a thin "muslin" type utility fabric, rather than another layer of canton flannel. (The military gents seem to drool over canton flannel shirts starting about late October... so if he decides this craziness isn't for him, you'll have a ready market for your used garments :-p )

Something you may not have thought about if his allergy is as severe as you suspect... plan your own wardrobe accordingly so he's not encountering wool in escorting or assisting you. :-p

[Marta Vincent]

About using cotton for the overshirt... I honestly don't know what would have been used other than wool & linen - both of which are very durable.  What I was suggesting was something you might be able to get locally and inexpensively.  Lightweight canvas would probably be fine - but I don't know about ticking. I don't see that used in clothing.  If you could get Hickory stripe denim (think railroad overalls) it was used for clothing and might be acceptable as an overshirt..

[Audra Spanfellner]

I think that a regular cotton undershirt would be fine. It's not very cold. But that is a great source of canton flannel! Thanks for sharing! And thanks for the pattern link!

I was just saying what it available locally. I'll look into the canvas. But that linen looks really nice! What weight would I need? I haven't ever sewn with linen before!

Oh I don't have to worry about my wardrobe. All my dresses are cotton. The only wool I have is stockings and a shawl. Thanks for the advice tho! As long as he doesn't touch it he should be fine.

[Marta Vincent]

The descriptions I've seen of linen overshirts said they were made of 'rough' linen. So a heavyweight natural linen should be fine.  That's what Kay made Major's out of (the linen one in my photobucket).

[Jessamyn]

You will love sewing with linen. It presses wonderfully (dampening helps) and stays where you put it when you're matching pieces. It's also great to wear, because it doesn't sour or chafe like cotton when wet, and is actually the only fiber that's stronger when wet. Just be sure to pre-wash vigorously, because it will shrink. Whether machine- or line-drying, pull it while still damp and iron it the rest of the way dry - it will go quickly and kill two birds with one stone.

[Ms. Jean]

Hancocks carries linen on line & in the stores near me.  Currently, there is a 40% off coupon and recently linen was on sale.

Have to work down my stash before buying fabric for a brown linen traveling dress....

Jean
Route 66

[Marta Vincent]

Linen also becomes more comfortable the more you wash it. It gets softer, and wears like iron!

[Jim_Ruley]

My 2 cents:

- Make the "under" shirt out of a durable cotton shirting.  The woven "homespuns" from places like Jo-Ann's are fine if colors are chosen wisely, and they're cheap.

- Make the trousers out of linen.  They will last much longer than cotton twill ones.  They also shed moisture better than cotton.

- Make the overshirt out of wool flannel, and line it with cotton.  Line the cuffs and collar too so the wool doesn't touch his skin.  This will be much warmer than a linen shirt.

The idea is the layer principle.  If it's hot or he's doing heavy work, he can remove the overshirt.  In the cooler parts of the day, at night, or in the rain, it will keep him warm.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[Angela O]

Marta, you mentioned corduroy in reference to men's trousers in an earlier post, and it peaked my curiousity.  Could you please explain a little more about appropriate mid-century corduroy?  Is there anything specific to look for or stay away from?  Men's wear is a fairly new avenue for me and I'm still trying to get my bearings before outfitting dh.

Angela

[Marta Vincent]

I'm not sure on it actually.  I have heard different "experts" say different things about corduroy.  There are many different threads on the forum that mention or discuss corduroy, so I'd do a search & read those.

[Jessamyn]

- Make the overshirt out of wool flannel, and line it with cotton.  Line the cuffs and collar too so the wool doesn't touch his skin.  This will be much warmer than a linen shirt.

I'm normally very pro-wool, but if he's really allergic to the point of welting, I would recommend against this. Although he wouldn't be touching the inside of the shirt if it were lined, his hands of course would be brushing the outside constantly.

Perhaps a linen overshirt could be lined with canton flannel.

[Audra Spanfellner]

Thank you so much for your replies! I think I am going to go with the linen! It's just looks to wonderful! I think it's best just to stay away from wool because of his allergy!

I noticed on one of the sites the linen was listed by ounces?? This is new to me so what weight in ounces would I be looking at for the overshirt?

Sorry it took me so long to reply but I've been so busy!

[Mary Warren]

Reviving an old topic.  Any advice on what weight linen would be a good choice for an overshirt to be worn in the warmer months?