Buttons on colored shirts

[Eileen Hook]

I am familiar with the use of mother of pearl buttons for white shirts, and I would assume also for lighter colored shirts. But what about dark colored shirts, the kind used for everyday wear? Were MOP buttons used for those as well? My experience with wooden buttons is that they don't hold up to laundering. Bone is sometimes available and can be dyed, but what are other options? I'm making several shirts in darker colors - blues, black/brown plaid, medium green - and need options that can be obtained at Joanns or other modern sources.

Thanks!

[Chip]

If you are looking for durable shirt buttons that will stand up to laundering, you might want to consider China buttons in solid dark colors. (black - brown - blue)

You can get them on e-bay from time to time or from buttons dealers who specialize in antique buttons.

You should look for four hole buttons as these were much more common and practical for the period.

If you want to get a little more fancy and expensive, you can go to calico buttons although calico buttons were most often used on women's clothing.

Mother of pearl buttons were considered to be more formal buttons, but as you already mentioned, more fragile.

On the most formal of shirts, you would exclusively use shank buttons where you would never see the actual fabric.

[Marta Vincent]

From what I have heard (no 'proof'), wooden buttons were not used as a first resort on clothing in the 19th century.  If someone lost or broke a button while in the field or at work, he might carve a replacement to hold his trousers up, but would purchase a replacement 'real' button from a sutler (if in the military) or replace it at home from his wife's supply.  He might also carve buttons from bone.

I'm sure the experts will chime in...

[Carolann Schmitt]

Eileen -

Here are the details I have on men's colored shirts c.1840-1870:
- Brown and cream checked cotton - 4-hole white china
- Brown and cream checked wool - 4 hole shell
- Medium blue and cream checked cotton - 4-hole white china
- Red , brown and tan printed cotton - red/white calico
- Blue, brown and tan printed cotton - 4-hole white china
I have not included the shirts listed in Bill Brown's Thoughts on Men's Shirts.

White shirts c.1840-1870:
37 with plain front placket openings - all have 4-hole white pearl, shell or china buttons.
7 bib front shirts, some with tucks, some with embroidery, some plain bib, two with bib fronts and back openings - all have 4-hole white pearl, shell or china buttons.
6 very fine white bib front shirts with pleats and/or embroidery - no buttons; double buttonholes on shirt fronts and cuffs for studs and sleeve links.

One white nightshirt, one white undershirt - both with white china buttons.

I personally have yet to examine an original white dress shirt c.1840-1870, with shank buttons. Neither have I observed original shirts from this era with wooden buttons.

FYI - Mother-of-pearl buttons can be dyed. I personally have not found them to be any more fragile than china if they are laundered properly.

Regards,
Carolann