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Author Topic: How to fix a gaping back neckline?  (Read 1288 times)
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MrsBennett
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« on: January 21, 2011, 06:00:44 PM »

Hello all:  I am easing back in to historical sewing, and while the project I'm contemplating is a bit earlier than CW, I know I will find some expert advice here. Smiley  I have a huge ribcage and fitted bodices always end up with a huge gape beginning at my shoulderblades up to back neckline.  I would like to learn how to create a smooth fit.   Is it as simple as pinning out the excess in my mockup and re-drawing the pattern? 

Thanks!
Shelli
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2011, 06:04:42 PM »

Shelli, it can be that simple.

Sometimes, it's a matter of smoothing everything upward from the ribcage, and being willing to cut an entirely new back neckline, too.

Do you have any curvature issues (like mild to moderate or even severe scoliosis), or challenges with forward-rounding shoulders, or a forward-thrust neck? Could you take a snapshot of the problem area (on you, preferably) and either post it, or email it to me at elizabethstewartclark@hotmail.com ?
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Elizabeth
MrsBennett
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« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2011, 06:06:27 PM »

I can do that!   Cheesy

Shelli
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MrsBennett
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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2011, 06:34:46 PM »

Elizabeth, I forgot to answer your questions in the email I sent with the photos.  I do have a tendency to slump a little when I stand.  Working on that!  I have quite a swayback. 
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Joanna Jones
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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2011, 03:58:02 PM »

Shelli - I have quite a swayback, also.  When I make a fitted back, I have to do 3 true pieces (not just the faux tucks so popular then) because I end up with a giant gap at the back of my neck, too.  And I have to modify the pieces a bit from the pattern to get everything to lay flat.

Not a lot of concrete help; just a bit of commiseration!

Joanna
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Brooke Whitaker
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« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2011, 08:21:15 PM »

Elizabeth, I forgot to answer your questions in the email I sent with the photos.  I do have a tendency to slump a little when I stand.  Working on that!  I have quite a swayback. 
Make sure you don't feel bad about it. Smiley I'm even worse. lol I can't seem to quite doing it either... SadSad
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Maggie Koenig
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« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2011, 11:28:59 PM »

Joanna pretty much hit the nail on the head.

- In a muslin you will want to have someone smooth that fullness to your armscye. 
- Dart out that extra fullness perpendicular to the armscye. 
- Draw your 3 piece back line to meet the point of the dart you just created. 
-Take the muslin off your body and mark the dart well (both sides). 
-  Also, mark yourself some matching notches by drawing a line perpendicular to the back curve line.
-Cut the muslin apart on the lines.  You will be removing that little triangle of dart.
-Copy the muslin pieces to another piece of muslin or paper.
-Don't forget to mark those matching points you created.
-Add 1/2" seam allowance along the seamline you just created.

  Clear as mud??
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Maggie Koenig
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MrsBennett
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« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2011, 12:09:31 AM »

Maggie, is this a description of "swinging the dart"? 
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2011, 08:42:29 AM »

Essentially, yes. I do think you may end up combining a bit of dart-swinging with the possible need for a center back seam; rare, but still seen. Smiley
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Elizabeth
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