Fabric Checking Thread

[Michelle Whitaker]

This thread is open to any one who has questions about their fabric.

Here are a several fabrics I have questions about.
This first one I was wondering if it was period correct for the 60's. It a cotton, Windham product. Here is what it says about it if that makes any difference. http://www.baumtextile.com/cgi-bin/fabricshop/gallery.cgi?Category=46&Page=1
Here is a picture I took of it.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo299/MichelleWhitaker/Sewing%20Academy/2010_0828MoterctcleMirror0034.jpg
This is all it says directly about this particular fabric. Its just in a collection of the above link.
http://www.windhamfabrics.com/cgi-bin/fabricshop/gallery.cgi?func=show&file=23&Category=46&v=1

#2 is another Windham product. Here is its picture.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo299/MichelleWhitaker/Sewing%20Academy/2010_0828MoterctcleMirror0040.jpg
Both of these I was considering for dresses.

[Jessamyn]

Just a quick line to remind anyone posting to this thread:

As Michelle has done, please state what years you want the fabric for (1850s? Civil War era? etc.), and what use you want to put it to (wash dress? ballgown? etc.). We'll be able to help so much more!

[Michelle Whitaker]

Does any body have any opinions???

[Jessamyn]

Just to get the ball rolling, the first one looks to me a little late (like, 1880s maybe?) and the second a little early (like 1830s-40s) but I'm not basing this opinion on a preponderance of evidence. Where's Eileen when you need her? 

[Angela O]

This is the first photo I've posted so I hope it shows up ok.  This is a photo of my great (x2) aunt.  I would like to reproduce this dress, but I have a couple of questions about the fabric.  Any thoughts on what the original fabric would have been?  I know it's really hard to tell much as the quality is really bad.  If it's not cotton, would it be inappropriate to make it in cotton?  I have found an almost identical cotton fabric that I could use if you all think it wouldn't be too bad.

Angela

[Angela O]

Ok, so I'll try this again.



It worked!  I think the bodice is gathered, from what I can tell.  So maybe cotton?

[Elizabeth]

From the softness visible in the bodice, I'd say you're looking at a gathered-to-fit dress with what look to be bishop sleeves; this could be very appropriately done in a printed cotton, or in a printed, lightweight wool. The pattern appears to be fairly high contrast, and looks like it's either a geometric shape or a floral sprig rather than something like a large spot. She does appear to be wearing a white collar and a neckbow--I can't see from the image, but white cuffs would also be "normal" with the style.

[Angela O]

The actual picture is a little, but not much, clearer than what it scanned.  I also had to crop and enlarge it a little.  It looked polka-dotty to me, or a very large, losely formed, closely packed floral.  Would a polka-dot be ok?  I took another look at the fabric I had seen and the dots are a little farther apart.  Here's the link.

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/productdetail.jsp?CATID=cat3075&PRODID=xprd687344


Angela

[Michelle Whitaker]

I'm not trying to take away from Angela's question, but I would like a few more answers.

BTW, Angela, I think it is so neat you have a picture of your relation like that. 

[Veronica Carey]

Boy, I think that polka dot is not right.  It sure looks like 1950s fabric, not 1850s.  I agree with Liz, your relatives dress is not a "spot on" polka dot at all.  If you are hoping to recreate it, I think you will find something more suitable.  I have not ever seen any examples in museums or source material of such a *large* and intensely contrasting polka dot.  IMHO.  Great photo, BTW!

[CVanS]

I hope you won't think me rude or out of line but, I would suggest looking at some of the fabrics offered by some seamstresses ( I have never met these ladies nor am I getting anything out of this comment) I know.  That way you would  get a good idea of the type of reproduction cotton fabric prints that look like polka dots from a distance.  Robin Stokes  http://www.robinstokes.com/ or Kay Gnagney  http://www.originals-by-kay.com/  (pardon me if there are others that sell fabric, I just do not know about you)

I hope that helps some.
Cindy

[Angela O]

Sorry Michelle, I didn't mean to hijack your question either!  I'd offer to help, but I am really just learning to find appropriate fabrics myself. 

Angela

[Angela O]

No offense taken from anyone, I'm glad of the help, just feeling quite frustrated right now.  (The dress I thought fit, I tried on again to check the length and it seems way to big all over  .  Now I need to do more alterations.)  I've looked at both of the websites and in other garments I've seen I've never seen anything like this.  I was basing the polka-dot on what seems to be the clearest, flattest part of the dress - the shoulder.  Yes Liz,  I think there are cuffs,  they're just barely visible on her right writst.

Angela

[Glenna Jo Christen]

While the term "polka" was widely used in the mid century for a variety of fashion purposed ("polka jacket" comes to mind first), I have yet to find an example of crisp round dots such as shown in the polka dot fabric link above. I suspect they would have found it to be rather boring.
Far more popular, from what I have found so far, is "spots", small motifs (trefoils, stylized flowers, patterned ovals, etc.) arranged in an organized pattern either with or without a background pattern between the motifs. Wool prints are more likely to have quarter sized motifs more widely spaced (the spaces at least as wide as the motifs) with very subtle or no background patterns while cotton prints are more likely to have smaller motifs that are closer together with 'busier' background patterns. 

I wrote a more detailed article on fabric selection for the Citizen's Companion a year or so ago now. I still have a few back issues if anyone is interested in a copy.

Glenna Jo Christen

[Angela O]

Ms. Christen,
  Would your guess be that the dress was made of wool, or just a small motif closely packed.  I'd be very interested in the article on fabrics.  Thank you.

Angela

[Angela O]

Michelle,
  I was just poking around in Kay Gnagey's shop and saw a couple of fabrics that were similar to the first one.  Not sure about the second.  Take a peak over there, they were in the cotton calico section.  There are quite a few other Wyndham fabrics there.

Angela

[Michelle Whitaker]

Oh, my, don't worry at all about asking your question, Angela! Your not hijacking at all, that's what this thread is for. I would just like a few more answers to mine. You are totally fine.
BTW Thanks so much for looking, Angela!

[Sherry Key]

Glenna Jo,

Which issue of Citizens Companion is the fabric article in?  I have all but one and I bet that's the one!

Sherry Key.

[Glenna Jo Christen]

Ms. Christen,
  Would your guess be that the dress was made of wool, or just a small motif closely packed.  I'd be very interested in the article on fabrics.  Thank you.

Angela

I am leaning more toward a cotton print based on the fabric pattern as well as the style of dress. There are always exceptions, but gathered bodice and bishop sleeves with a closer patterned print is most typical of cotton and least typical of silk, wool is somewhere in the middle.

Please contact me directly with your contact info to make arrangement for the magazine.

Glenna Jo Christen

[Glenna Jo Christen]

My fabric selection article is in the May 2008 issue of the Citizen's Companion. It is under the Watchdog heading. The cover is a sepia tone original photo of a group of five young men sitting cross legged on the floor.
I am always surprised at how long ago my articles are published. It is a reminder that I owe Connie articles, big time! I had one almost done on gathering aprons, but it was lost (along with a whole lot of other important stuff ) when my lap top was stolen last fall. I've just not been able to motivate myself to start all over again rewriting it and taking photos again, etc. (I know, whine whine whine.

Glenna Jo Christen