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Author Topic: Breast Pocket in Lining  (Read 5665 times)
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« on: June 04, 2010, 04:20:28 PM »

Not long ago someone asked how to make a breast pocket in a coat lining.  I just did this for a partially lined coat, so here are the steps I used.  This is not necessarily the simplest way, but will work even if the pocket material and lining are different.

The first picture shows the lining/facing assembly with the pocket pieces on top of it.  Pocket bags are 6-1/2 x 10 inches, cut from brown silesia.  The pocket welt is 2 x 6-1/2, cut from the same material as the lining.  The pocket location has been thread marked in black cotton.  I normally use white, but the contrast makes a better picture.

Closeup of the welt piece.  One edge is ironed under (or you could cut on the selvedge).  Then the welt is creased in the middle to mark the slit location (or you could chalk it).

On the wrong side of the lining, pin a pocket bag half so the top is 1" above the mark:

Turn over, and place the welt (right sides together) so the crease (or chalk) lies over the mark.  Then baste along the crease as shown:

Sew a rectangle parallel to the basting and about 1/8" on each side of it.  Keep the ends 1/2" from the edges of the welt.  When finished, slash open along the basting and clip diagonally to the corners.  (Note:  In heavier materials it may be better to clip straight to the stitch line.)

Press and fold the welt edges to the inside.  What works best for me is to press open the diagonal slashed corners, then press the welt edges up, then do the remaining folding by hand.  Baste in place as shown.  I recommend starting in the middle below the welt, working around it and back below.

This is the welt seen from the back side at this stage:

Sew through all layers a little below the bottom folded edge of the welt.  Leave extra thread and finish the ends by hand, then remove the lower basting:

Working on the inside, pull the bag away from the lining and sew the folded under edge of the welt in place.  Be careful not to catch the lining in the stitching.

Lay the second bag half in position over the first and pin.  Sew around the side and bottom edges, being careful not to catch the lining:

Working from the top side, sew through all layers above the top folded welt edge.  Leave extra thread and tack the ends.  You can also whipstitch the ends of the welts as shown here.

For best results, the welt should be tacked to the inside of the chest canvas when the lining is put in the coat.

Hope this is useful,

Jim Ruley
always in fashion
« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2010, 12:41:17 PM »

It was me me me! he he

And i could not figure it out and was working so much during the  day my mind just could not formulate it. So i just made a regular welt. But in the future i will do it this way.

Here is another one for the tutorial section.

Thanks sooo soo so so so much

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