Brag Section for Undies

[Kendle L.]

HUGEST of dittos with Carolann.

Kendle, I'd ask the person giving that "rule" about "rope" versus finer cords for further information; there's no reason I can think of for a town being able to get in thicker cording only, versus string-sized cording. Each are normal goods, and there'd be no reason, economically, for one versus the other. Commerce was not nearly so limited as we sometimes assume. I would be very interested in more information from that person's sourcing for the preference.

I'd encourage you to make a finer cord petticoat. They're very comfortable to sit on, lightweight, the materials are inexpensive, and they *are* perfectly appropriate to the first half of the 1850s, even in quite remote locations.

The person who told me that was also the person who told me to buy a corset kit. If I ever get someone to make me a corset, I'll definately have a corded petticoat made instead of a roped petticoat. Any suggestions on a good pattern for a corded petticoat that has good volume but not too much? Like I could still wear it around a campfire and even a small-town cotillion?

[Paula]

Directions for a corded petticoat:

1.Use Elizabeth's free petticoat pattern found here http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/GAMC/FP/PDF/Basic%20Petticoat.pdf for the basic panels.   90" is about the normal width so plan on two panels of 45"

2. Instead of using 2-3"  hem use an 18" hem.  Sew a line of stitching 1/2" up from the fold at the bottom.

3. Sandwich cording (I use Sugar and Cream crochet cotton) between the petticoat and the hem/facing and using your zipper/piping foot on your sewing machine: Start sewing tiny little cords spiraling upward in whatever pretty pattern you want. A search of the brag section will show you some examples.  Repeat for about 50-80 rows.  I take a break after every 10 or so in order to keep my sanity (Takes me about 4-5 hours to do 10 rows).  A good movie also helps.

4.  After cording is all in, finish petticoat using the free pattern directions. 

5.  Post pictures in the Brag section.  A corded petticoat is something to be VERY proud of. 

Here's an example of one I did.
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=6539.msg96302#msg96302

[Elizabeth]

Kendle, you'll also find the process, with illustrations, in The Dressmaker's Guide, available on the main site (http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com) Unless you're wanting to recreate a specific corded petticoat, don't spend money on a separate pattern. As Paula outlines, the work is not difficult, just tedious. You can customize the width howsomever you prefer. Most older teen/adult corded petticoats from the 40s/50s seem to fall somewhere in the 100" to 130" range, and anywhere in there can be quite fine for puttering around with household chore, doing farm work, *or* heading for church.

[KayAllen]

At last I have something to brag about!  Here are pics of my recently finished tucked petticoat.  I notice that it got crunched and needs ironing, but you can get the idea.  It has two set of 7 tucks and a top set of 4 tucks.  And I think it is worth every blue word I uttered in the process.

http://pics.livejournal.com/kayclareallen/pic/0001wadp/

http://pics.livejournal.com/kayclareallen/pic/0001tphs/


Kay A.

[MissJanetFortino]

Beautiful work!

[Heidi Hollister]

B-E-A-Utiful!  All my petticoats are too short for a hoop.  Yours look so pretty.

[rrbeers]

Absolutely LOVELY!

[Maria]

Kay, you look lovely! Great Job!

Maria

[KayAllen]

Thank you all!  Although I succumbed to having a professional seamstress make some of my dresses, I'm enjoying making the underpinnings and accessories for myself.  My dressmaker, who is also a reenactor, has given me some good pointers.  Between her hands-on help and Elizabeth's Dressmakers Guide, I think I won't embarrass myself or my unit. 

Kay A.

[Brooke Whitaker]

Kay, your petti turned out very nicely! 

[Jennifer Hill]

It is my plan to weave some corded pettis for myself & friends, this Winter.  Winter is getting closer & my furniture moving is not.  So, it may be Spring!

But, I need to know how many threads per inch I should warp up for the pettis & how many cords per inch I should include in the weft.

I can probably figure the second, but the first will make a BIG difference.  Thank heaven, I have a sectional warp beam.  I may be cursing it, however, if I have to do 100 to 200 threads per inch.  You'll hear me scream all the way back East! LOL 

So, costume gurus, please help me out, here!
 Jennifer

[Ginger Lane]

I finally finished some new chemises this spring. The first is a curved-yoke chemise made from Kay's pattern:



Alas, I used a remnant of lawn right before I learned that lawn is not at all appropriate for chemises! Oh, well.

It's completely plain because I didn't have any lace I liked to put on it. I did use a Dorset button, though. And the gathers are done by hand.



The second chemise is the straight-yoked, tucked-front version from Past Patterns.



I used Pimatex cotton for this one, and trimmed it with vintage whitework I found at an antique mall on Christmas Eve.   It's probably not perfectly period, but I love how it looks. It's exactly the weight and even off-white color of the Pimatex.  And for about $.50/yd, I wasn't complaining. I have enough left to trim a full petticoat and maybe a pair of drawers.



More stroked gathers. And I gathered the whitework lightly to give it some ease. I didn't want a tight frill, but I also didn't want it a taut band.

[Heidi Hollister]

Mmm Mmm MMMM!  Beautiful work!

[Brooke Whitaker]

Ginger, your chemises are very inspiring! They both look very lovely.  I'm still trying to decide which style I'll do next. I like the way the yoked ones looks, but I don't like all the bulk tucked in to my drawers. I guess when I get new drawers made I could wear them under my corset. We'll see. 

[Ginger Lane]

Thank you both! Brooke, I don't tuck, so the bulk wasn't a concern for me. That said, the Past Patterns one is indeed quite full and long. The Kay-pattern one is a lot less full, mostly because it isn't tucked and not very tightly gathered. A lighter fabric than Pimatex and a shorter length would make it very useable for tucking, IMHO.

[Brooke Whitaker]

Thank you both! Brooke, I don't tuck, so the bulk wasn't a concern for me. That said, the Past Patterns one is indeed quite full and long. The Kay-pattern one is a lot less full, mostly because it isn't tucked and not very tightly gathered. A lighter fabric than Pimatex and a shorter length would make it very useable for tucking, IMHO.

Thanks for the info.  

[Ginny Hardcastle]

Ginger, both of your chemises are absolutely beautiful!

How does the Dorset button do in the wash?  Will you be able to put the chemise in the washing machine or will it be hand wash only?

Ginny

[Maria]

Ginger,
SO  pretty!

I'm inspired to try the pleating on my next chemise.

Maria

[Janet Wragge]

Just a little something to keep me warm when I do those nasty cold events that seem to be the norm for me.    I've wanted a red wool petti for quite some time, and now I have one.     Next stop, purple wool paletot.......

[Brooke Whitaker]

Your petti is so cute, Janet, I can't wait to see the paletot.