Sack coat vs frock for 1863

[lindym]

I'm sure I've seen references to various patterns in the posts, but which coat style would be best for a middle class civilian and which pattern to use. I'm not sure I'm capable of drafting a pattern, although I can usually modify to get the result I want. I have some brown worsted wool to use.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Linda

[ntucker]

Hi Linda,

It always comes back to your definition of middle class and the intended use of the garment.  What is the impression of the gentleman who will be wearing the coat?  Even if you never use first person or develop impressions, this step really helps.  Is he a doctor, a lawyer, judge, prosperous local farmer who employs help, etc.? 

What do you wear, so that you match in economic status?  For example, a woman in a tired calico and a man in a top quality frock suit are a little unbalanced.  Is this his best coat, daily wear coat, or the old one he throws over his overalls?

Based on the fabric and the fact that it's your first at a mid-century coat, I'd suggest a nice sack.  If you do the sack, I highly recommendi the purchase of Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera, ISBN: 1-87005-43107  The book takes you step by step through constructing a suit jacket, and much of it is directly applicable to making a period sack. 

For a pattern, I suggest you contact Jim Ruley off list for a custom drafted pattern based on Devere's system.  You'll only spend a little more than you would for the Homespun Sack pattern and you won't spend nearly as much time fixing the sleeves or adjusting the fit. 

Nancy Tucker
Houston, TX

edited to add pattern suggestion

[debi casey]

Ditto to Nancy's comments.  I do currently have that tailoring book on ILL sitting on my table to read and consult.  It is very well written and illustrated.  If you don't have DeVere's book to draft from, then PM Jim Ruley for a pattern.  He does a wonderful job.

Debi

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Linda,

I think a brown worsted would be a better choice for a sack coat than a frock.  All but one of the surviving original wool frocks I have seen have been made of black woolen broadcloth.  Fashion plates suggest that other colors existed but probably in similar materials and dark colors.  Sack coats, OTOH are depicted in a range of shades and patterns so a broader range of fabrics were evidently considered acceptable.

It's my understanding (others please correct if wrong) that by the mid-60's sack and frock coats were pretty much worn at the pleasure of the individual for ordinary daywear.  The sack coat was considered less formal, and therefore would be more appropriate for an office worker, clerk, or mechanic, while the frock would be more fitting for a proprietor, manager, doctor, or official.  However, most middle-class men probably owned both styles.  Mr Mayor might wear a sack coat while travelling, and Mr Mechanic probably donned his one good black frock coat to go to church.

If you are interested in a custom pattern (for either sack or frock) please PM me.  I use an 1866 tailoring book, so you'll either get a fit or an authentic misfit  ...Seriously I can't promise a perfect result, but it should get you closer "in the ballpark" than many of the commercial patterns available.

Hope this helps,

Jim Ruley

[lindym]

Thanks all for the input.

Jim, you confirmed my thoughts on sack vs frock. I have made 2 suits for DH already, but they weren't done in 100% wool.

Linda

[JasonWickersty]

For a great survey of middle-class men's wear, check out the several images in the Library of Congress' Civil War photograph collection of the groups of clerks outside the War and Quartermaster's Departments.  A wide variety of various jackets, with many variations of sack coats being represented.