sleeves that are puckering

[Malinda Byrne]

So, I am setting in sleeves on a shell jacket and I think I have too much fabric because the basting stitches I put in to ease in the sleeve are creating puffing and puckering.  The first time I made this jacket it worked fine.  If I trim off some of the wool at the top of the sleeve and make it less rounded, will that solve the problem?
Any help would be appreciated.
Malinda (who has too many projects that need to be done before this weekend)

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Malinda,

You can do a number of things depending on the "look" you are trying to recreate.  Puffing and puckering looks sloppy to our modern eyes, but is often seen in period photos.  See the "Spanish Frock Coat" thread for an example.

If you prefer a smoother look (also perfectly appropriate), you can try several things:

- Run gathering threads at the top of the sleeve head and smoothly work the fullness into the armscye.  This gives a little "roll" at the top of the shoulder but eliminates the puckers.

- Set the sleeve more deeply into the top of the armscye so the fullness is reduced or eliminated.  I advise doing this before trimming any fabric off, as it is reversible.  Once you are happy with the look, then trim off the excess.

Hope this helps,

Jim Ruley