Inverness cape

[bevinmacrae]

Mr. Ruley,

One of my clients recently sent me a letter commissioning what he called an "inverness cape". He also sent Salisbury's book and the page number that the cape was on. To me it looks just like the caped overcoat you are working on, but his letter seems to indicate that he considers the cape to be a seperate garment and to have nothing whatever to do with the coat itself. He would like to wear this cape over his existing coats. So my question is, what really is an "inverness cape" and were just plain capes worn by men that had nothing to do with the coat worn underneath?
~bevin

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

With the name I never heard of, I had to look this one up. From looking at online pictures and sketches, I think it looks like a sleeveless body of a straight cut coat with a long cape attached. The armsyces where sleeves normally would be appear to be cut rather loosely or large for the arm. In some of the sketches, it looks like the cape has arm slot cut in one or two places.

Look forward to an in-the-know answer.

Anna

[Ginger Lane]

I'm fairly sure that the Inverness garment is post-war, and significantly post-war in terms of popularity.  It's a garment I would associate with early Sherlock Holmes.  If your client simply wants that and doesn't need it for 1860s use, disregard what I just wrote.    I remember seeing diagrams for it and I do believe the cape is attached.  Without separate sleeves, you're not going to want to have that cape separate.

[debi casey]

In Louis DeVere's book, page 104, it talks about inverness capes.  Also on plate 33 you will see the drafting instructions.  I can't find the online version to put the links to make it easy for all to see, but here is a description.

"One of the most convenient of all Cloaks, and the one which is in most general use, is the Inverness Cape.  It is a kind of Cloak with large armhole, this armhole being covered by a cape, which is place at the front part of the garment only......."

Debi, who has plans to make one of these eventually.

[Jim_Ruley]

So my question is, what really is an "inverness cape" and were just plain capes worn by men that had nothing to do with the coat worn underneath?

Hi Bevin,

I checked both "Civil War Gentlemen" (the Shep book that includes Salisbury's System) and DeVere's 1866 Handbook.  I presume your client was referring to the illustration on page xvii of "CWG"?  This originally was published in Tailor and Cutter in 1869 and is broadly similar to DeVere's 1866 draft (Plate 33).  I did not find an Inverness cape draft in Salisbury's System itself.

To address your question, the Inverness cape is a loose-fitting overcoat which has "wings" or capes in place of sleeves.  I also have plans to make one of these, and have made a muslin mockup using DeVere's 1866 draft.  I think it will produce a very elegant-looking garment, though I think at this point it will be late summer or fall before I get around to sticking the thing together.  If this is what your client wants, you should be able to do the draft in about 20 minutes using the graduated measures -- I had to do the math  .

DeVere's 1866 book also presents drafts for several styles of cloaks and capes (p. 107 and Plate 34).  However, he notes that these are "garments which are but rarely made at the present time".  So your client might be better served by an Inverness or a caped overcoat; I actually used the "three quarter circle cloak" draft to design the cape for my client  .

Hope this is helpful,

Jim R.

[Jim_Ruley]

It's a garment I would associate with early Sherlock Holmes.

Hi Anna,

It's been a few years since I read the Holmes stories, but I recall Watson using the term "Ulster" rather than Inverness cape.  (Of course I don't have total recall  .)  An "Ulster", if I'm not mistaken (need to check my refs), is very much like an Inverness cape, but with sleeves under the capes.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[Jim_Ruley]

More on the Sherlock Holmes angle...

I "googled" Sherlock Holmes, Inverness cape, and Ulster overcoat in various combinations.  My recollection of Holmes wearing an Ulster was confirmed here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/brunel/A2773415

I also found the following quote about the Inverness cape angle here: http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/sherlock-holmes/features/playing-holmes-in-progress

The first great actor to define the role was the American, William Gillette (1853-1937), who adapted several Doyle stories to create two stage plays. Gillette gave more than 1,300 stage performances as Holmes around the world, and was still playing him in his late 70s. It was Gillette who gave Holmes his deerstalker hat, Inverness cape and curved "calabash" pipe. Though shown in some illustrations, the cape and deerstalker are never mentioned in the stories, where Holmes's headgear is more usually a shiny top hat. While Doyle's detective smokes a straight pipe, Gillette found it easier to deliver his lines with a curved one, which did not hide his features. He also invented the catchphrase, "Elementary, my dear Watson!"

An "Ulster" just seems to be a long, loose, usually belted overcoat.  http://www.answers.com/topic/ulster  Don't know where my idea of a cape came from.

Hope this is interesting,

Jim R.

[bevinmacrae]

Armed with this information, I'm just going to call my client and see exactly what he would like. I have long worn the inverness capes for bagpipe band activities that take place in inclement weather, but had never thought of it being a historic garment! Learn something new everyday!
~bevin

[billclark]

Is this what that olive wool wants to be, hmmmm, I think I hear it calling from under the bed......


Bill

[bevinmacrae]

Now look here, Mr Clark, you just hang on to that there wool what would be taking up space in my house until you've got a good sketch of what it wants to be complete with measurements done out! Then you can bring that harseblanket back over here. Otherwise, the next time I see it, it's going to get made into a bedgown for Rev war stuff. Same goes for Connor's upolstry stuff that I can't seem to get him to take home. THough I don't know that that wants to be a bedgown nearly as bad as that olive wool....


Anyway, next question is, is it cheaper to deal with Hainsworth direct from the UK, or to go through Needle and Thread? And how can I contact Hainsworth in the UK? Also, my customer seems to think that N and T offers a discount on fabrics to seamstresses and tailors, never heard of this before, anybody know if it's true? I'm excited about this project "to be excuted in Hainsworth wool and lined in silk with red thread quilting" but I'm a little trepidatious about working with such expensive fabric.

~bevin

[Jim_Ruley]

Anyway, next question is, is it cheaper to deal with Hainsworth direct from the UK, or to go through Needle and Thread? And how can I contact Hainsworth in the UK? Also, my customer seems to think that N and T offers a discount on fabrics to seamstresses and tailors, never heard of this before, anybody know if it's true? I'm excited about this project "to be excuted in Hainsworth wool and lined in silk with red thread quilting" but I'm a little trepidatious about working with such expensive fabric.

Hi Bevin,

It will probably be cheaper to buy from "N&T" *if* they have the color you want in stock.  The last time I checked they only carried red, black and navy blue and only in broadcloth.  Your client might be more interested in their overcoatings.  N&T could probably order it for you, but I suspect it would not be cheaper.  I am not aware of a discount for "those in the trade" but it's worth asking both N&T and Hainsworth!

The Inverness cape is one of the few garments for which DeVere's book actually includes fabric suggestions.  These are:

- For evening wrappers or the theatres:  dark coloured Meltons or Waterproof cloths of good substance and quality
- For general Winter wear or travelling:  stout Pilots, Witneys, or fancy diagonals, the edges bound with braid, and the collars covered with matching velvet.
- For Summer, tourist's wear, or the races:  Light waterproof tweed.
- Alpaca is the most appropriate lining (if required).

Some of our "fabric mavens" might want to chime in with more info about these archaic cloths and where to find the best equivalents.

(DeVere provides a "receipt for waterproofing" but unless you enjoy playing with "sugar of lead" I'd leave it alone  )

I'm going to put the information on working with Hainsworth in a separate thread, as it applies to all international vendors and garments.

Hope this is helpful,

Jim R.

[Ginger Lane]

More on the Sherlock Holmes angle...

I "googled" Sherlock Holmes, Inverness cape, and Ulster overcoat in various combinations.  My recollection of Holmes wearing an Ulster was confirmed here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/brunel/A2773415

I also found the following quote about the Inverness cape angle here: http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/sherlock-holmes/features/playing-holmes-in-progress

The first great actor to define the role was the American, William Gillette (1853-1937), who adapted several Doyle stories to create two stage plays. Gillette gave more than 1,300 stage performances as Holmes around the world, and was still playing him in his late 70s. It was Gillette who gave Holmes his deerstalker hat, Inverness cape and curved "calabash" pipe. Though shown in some illustrations, the cape and deerstalker are never mentioned in the stories, where Holmes's headgear is more usually a shiny top hat. While Doyle's detective smokes a straight pipe, Gillette found it easier to deliver his lines with a curved one, which did not hide his features. He also invented the catchphrase, "Elementary, my dear Watson!"

An "Ulster" just seems to be a long, loose, usually belted overcoat.  http://www.answers.com/topic/ulster  Don't know where my idea of a cape came from.

Hope this is interesting,

Jim R.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info; I found it very interseted.  By the way, that was me and not Anna with the Holmes reference.

I did not intend to imply that there was any reference at all to the Inverness cape in any of the stories, which I have read many times.  I merely wanted to give my impression of it as being popular in the postwar period.  I know I have seen it in illustrations from that time, mostly the drawings from the Strand magazine or others like it, and I have not noticed it in anything earlier in the century.  All I was trying to do (unsuccessfully) was express how I think of it as a later-Victorian garment, without having any evidence to cite.

I do think that, whether "authentic" to the stories or not, I'm vindicated for associating the Inverness cape with a later period.   Since this forum is concerned with the 1840s-1860s, I was a little concerned that the garment might not be accurate for the projected use.  I was endeavoring to raise that point without being pointed; I guess I missed.     

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Ginger,

Sorry to have confused you with Anna!  It can be hard sometimes to put the right name with the small print that comes up when replying.

I do think that, whether "authentic" to the stories or not, I'm vindicated for associating the Inverness cape with a later period.

In addition to DeVere's 1866 book and the 1869 "Tailor and Cutter" draft, the Inverness cape is illustrated in several of the 1861-64 fashion plates appearing in "CWG".  I did not find a draft for it in any of the pre-1860's tailoring guides I have reprints of.  I would say there is certainly ample evidence for using it for a mid-60's impression.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[BarbaraSmith]

Not that this is a GREAT reference, but I happened to catch the old 1970's BBC production of "David Copperfield" and he was wearing a SHORT Inverness cape. Like, just below hip length. Where you'd wear a modern pea coat.

I thought it looked odd. Any period references to a SHORT version of the Inverness cape?

Cheers,
Barbara

[Jim_Ruley]

I thought it looked odd. Any period references to a SHORT version of the Inverness cape?

Hi Barbara,

None that I'm aware of -- but the pea coat itself appears in DeVere's 1866 book, as a derivative of the paletot draft.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[BarbaraSmith]

How interesting! Is it called a pea coat?
B.

[debi casey]

Barbara, I just happen to have my Devere book sitting right here at the table and looked up pea coats.  And yes, they are there; but they are referred to as pea jackets.  (pg. 100-101).

Debi

[Ginger Lane]

Hi Ginger,

Sorry to have confused you with Anna!  It can be hard sometimes to put the right name with the small print that comes up when replying.

I do think that, whether "authentic" to the stories or not, I'm vindicated for associating the Inverness cape with a later period.

In addition to DeVere's 1866 book and the 1869 "Tailor and Cutter" draft, the Inverness cape is illustrated in several of the 1861-64 fashion plates appearing in "CWG".  I did not find a draft for it in any of the pre-1860's tailoring guides I have reprints of.  I would say there is certainly ample evidence for using it for a mid-60's impression.

Thanks,

Jim R.

No worries; I didn't want Anna to be blamed for giving wrong information.

I did not mean associating it with a later period exclusively.

[bevinmacrae]

yesterday i finally got around to having a long talk with the client about his inverness cape. Anyway, now I have a few more questions, of course! In all cases of question, the client siad he would deferr to the prevailing research if something he requested was not accurrate.

He would like frogs to fasten the front. Are these accurrate and if so, what are they made out of and how do i find that?
If frogs are not an accurrate closure, what about fabric covered buttons?
He would like pockets on the inside. He said two breast and also something around the waist, I am thinking about two inside waist pockets. What about a watch pocket inside? This is an overcoat type garment, not sure if they would have had a watch pocket in them.
Where can I find accurrate quilting patterns for the overcoat part and the cape?
He would like padding in the chest and in the shoulder area as well.
He had questions about velveteen, velvet, or silk on the collar. The illustration he sited had what appears to be sometpye of different, darker fabric on the collar and lapels, but no telling what type it is. I am thinking velveteen is most suitable, but what do you think?
How do I work the front closure? Coat and cape button or fasten indipendantly of one another, or do they connect and fasten together?
Is there a vent in the back of the overcoat part?
He'd like some sort of binding on the edges to help them stand out. What do I use for that? Bias silk?

His determination of the inverness cape is a sleeveless overcoat with a cape that is detachable. The cape falls to where a sleeve would. Is this a fairly accurate description of an inverness cape? It jives with the modern one, but we all know how things have changed in hunderd and some years!
Anyway, he is working on aquiring the fabric (hainsworth) himself, so I don't have to worry about that! He would like a silk lining. Silk taffeta, or china silk? Or what is the best?
~bevin

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Bevin,

     The best advice I can give you is to sit down with your client and go over pp 104-107 in DeVere's book.  In addition to the pattern it has a sketch of the assembled cape.  It includes advice on materials and shows two styles of collar. 

     As shown, the garment has a button front on the coat, and a fly-type closure on the cape.  One breast pocket is shown with a patch pocket and flap lower on the body.

     The capes are absolutely not detachable and are individual pieces for each arm.  They are sewn to the back at the side and shoulder, and meet in the front.

Hope this is helpful,

Jim R.