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Author Topic: How do you make a bustle pad??  (Read 4600 times)
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Anna
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« on: July 24, 2009, 10:47:04 AM »

Since I have been posting, I've learned to number my questions so my advisers can easily read all my questions.

Questions:

1) How do make a bustle pad for a 1860ish gown?
2) Are there any particular dimensions which I should use?
3) Is the bustle pad positioned right below low the waist on the outside of the hoop?  Please, NO GIGGLES!

Anna

 
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AmandaCarol
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« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2009, 11:12:14 AM »

Anna, there are a few threads on here about bustle pads that a quick search should bring up.
A site that I recently found has some simple directions for a bum roll, that may be more Ren Faire, but is almost the same concept. http://www.reddawn.net/costume/bumroll.htm I guess you could make it biiger depending on how much padding you want.
The pad probably needs to go under your hoop to give a nice sloping line for a smooth silhouette. There are a few pictures out there showing this from the period, or from "period" movies.

Amanda
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Anna
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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2009, 11:48:04 AM »

Would I have to balance the hoop again at the waist so it wouldn't tilt?  Or is that not a problem?

Anna
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2009, 12:44:46 PM »

Yes, you'll want to rebalance it across the back, and the bustle pad will also affect your petticoats.
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Elizabeth
Anna
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2009, 01:06:06 PM »

Well, I have not sewn the hoop back ties to the hoop waistband. 

Should I wait to finish the hoop until I make the bustle pad?

Where does the bustle pad go under the hoop?


Anna



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Stephanie Brennan
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« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2009, 02:50:16 PM »

A bustle pad in a antique clothing store was very simple. A rectangle of brown polished cotton tufted and a placed on a waist band of the same.       Stephanie
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Jessamyn
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« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2009, 05:05:05 PM »

I have a small bustle pad based on the Hunnisett pattern that I wear on top of the hoop. It's much simpler, and I don't have any problems with lumpiness. It helps that it has a ruffle all the way around, to step down the volume more gradually.
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Denise Butler
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2009, 03:17:15 AM »

I made a bustle pad - a simple crescent moon shape stuffed with wool roving - from the Hunnisett pattern to wear under my N&T cage. The weight of the skirts of my wool dress caused the cage to tip toward the front; the bustle pad supports the back of the cage and prevents the tipping. I don't need the pad with my voile dress, as the skirts are lighter. Since I don't need it all the time, I simply pin the pad to the waist band of the cage when I wear the wool.

It seems that whether you need a pad and where you place it is dependent on your cage and the dress you wear over it. If your cage is more "christmas tree" and you want the "upside down wine glass" look, then the pad would be made to wear over it. If your cage has a "butt shelf" (as the N&T cage does), but you don't have the backside flesh to support it, you would make the pad to wear under it.
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Denise
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« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2009, 04:41:22 AM »

1856 directions are included in theĀ  RL Shep reprint:

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=238.0

This design involves gathered fabric. You could vary the loft with different fabrics or amounts of starch.

Hope this helps you!

Jean
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Ms. Jean
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Anna
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« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2009, 12:35:59 PM »

Jessamyn...
Which bustle pattern in Hunnsiet's book did you use? I happen to have the book!

So...would a cresent shaped bum roll or a frilly bustle be more fitting for early-mid 1860s?


Anna

 
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The Sewing-Bird.
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« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2009, 05:14:09 PM »

If your cage has a "butt shelf" (as the N&T cage does), but you don't have the backside flesh to support it, you would make the pad to wear under it.

That is me to a "T". Thanks, Denise, you've saved me a little headache.
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