Wool Fabric Content Labelling Laws

[Jim_Ruley]

Ian McWherter wrote,

Remember according to federal law a cloth manufacturer only has to list "other fibers", such as synthetic, if the quantity is greater than 10%. So I could legitimately (and many do) sell wool fabric that has 9% synthetic in it and label it as 100% wool.

I did some research today and found information on the "Wool Products Labelling Act" of 1939, apparently still in force.  The text is available here:

http://www.ftc.gov/os/statutes/textile/rr-wool.htm#300.17

According to this Act, only products composed of 100% wool can legally be sold as "all wool" or "100% wool" in the US.  Other fiber content does not have to be spelled out unless it exceeds 5%.  Additionally, 100% wool products may contain reprocessed wool unless they are labelled "virgin" or "new".

This is a legal requirement, but of course the mere existence of a law does not guarantee compliance  .

Ian, if you have corroborating information for your 10% limit, I'd like to know about it.

Thanks,

Jim Ruley

[Ian McWherter]

Huh, interesting. I was told that (10%) was the case by different people. My friend, in searching for decent 100% wool flannel, was told that that was the case by different cloth sellers as well (perhaps these people were wrong  ). When he burn tested different swatches of "100%" wool flannel (and yes, he knows what he's doing) he was very surprised to find synthetic existing in some of the swatches. 

You can never be too careful in purchasing fabric. I've been known to stand fondling a bolt of fabric until store closing time, before making a decision. Even then, sometimes I have to come back or take a swatch home with me.

Of the wool flannel he burn tested, 96 District Storehouse and B. Black & Sons flannel was kosher.

[Carolann Schmitt]

The "10% exclusion" may be linked to the country of origin. To the best of my knowledge (and I used to work in a field where product labeling was very important), the 1939 wool act is still in effect in the US. It does not necessarily apply to fabrics manufactured overseas. There are several Chinese manufacturers that use the "10% other fibers" criteria, as do some South Asian manufacturers. They'll label the fabric correctly to get it through customs and quotas, but that doesn't guarantee the correct label remains with the goods. 

In addition to a burn test, you may want to try a bleach test. I've found it to be even more accurate when testing for protein (silk or wool) fibers.
-  Pour 1/2" of chlorine bleach (Chlorox or similar brand) into a glass container, e.g. Pyrex dish, measuring cup, etc.
-  Place a swatch of the fabric in the bleach.
-  Let sit undisturbed for up to 24 hours. (It probably won't take that long.)
-  If the fibers are pure wool or silk, they will completely dissolve.
-  If they are bast fibers (cotton, linen, pina cloth, ramie, etc.) they'll just get white.

Regards,
Carolann

[Pam Robles]

In addition to a burn test, you may want to try a bleach test. I've found it to be even more accurate when testing for protein (silk or wool) fibers.
-  Pour 1/2" of chlorine bleach (Chlorox or similar brand) into a glass container, e.g. Pyrex dish, measuring cup, etc.
-  Place a swatch of the fabric in the bleach.
-  Let sit undisturbed for up to 24 hours. (It probably won't take that long.)
-  If the fibers are pure wool or silk, they will completely dissolve.
-  If they are bast fibers (cotton, linen, pina cloth, ramie, etc.) they'll just get white.

Regards,
Carolann

Carolann, what happens to the hidden synthetics mixed with the protein fibers?  Do they remain intact?

[Carolann Schmitt]

Pam -

Yes, they do; as will any bast fibers. Depending on how the thread is spun and plied, it could take a while for the protein fibers to dissolve - from a few hours to almost 24; but eventually you'll have nothing left except plant fibers or petroleum by-product.  I once tested a plaid fabric woven with alternating strands of cotton and wool in each direction. I ended up with graph paper at the bottom of the dish. 

I should also note that this test works best with relatively fresh bleach. If the bottle on your shelf has been there since the Nixon era, you may need a new supply. 

Carolann

[Pam Robles]

Thanks, Carolann.  I don't think I have anything lying around from the Nixon years, including political affiliations.   

Not being one to leave things lie, can a burn test then be done on the remaining fibers or would a microscope be the best route to take to ID the non-protein bits?

[Carolann Schmitt]

You could do either one.

One of the issues with burn testing is that it is somewhat subjective; my "smells like burning hair" may not be the same as yours. I practised with some 'known' fabrics just to learn the differences. Microscopic analysis is pretty infallible; but not everyone keeps a microscope under their bed with their crinoline and pet dust bunnies. 

Carolann

[Pam Robles]

You'd be astonished by what we have keeping the dust bunnies company.    I nearly bought a microscope over the weekend but DH assures me there's something he rescued from the tip bin at work that will serve the purposes.  I'm still waiting. 

[BarbaraSmith]

I'm now accepting bets on who on this board OWNS a microscope SPECIFICALLY for eyeballing fabrics.

Not because they are a microscope user in another arena of their life.

I personally have $5 riding on Anna Worden. Where IS Anna lately, anyway? Anna? Are you okay? Did the children riot and take you down with them?

Cheers,
B.

[bevinmacrae]

I confess I'm the reason that Anna hasn't been on lately! That and she's had the week off of school and her primary internet source! I wen to visit her on tuesday and we had a wonderful time looking at farby photos and chatting about all sorts of things! Some of her sheer dresses are just to die for! Also discovered about 3 antique stores in Caledonia and that Genesee Country Museum, my dream place to work, pays all their docents. Perhaps dream may become a reality soon? I sure hope so.
~bevin

[BarbaraSmith]

Oh good! I was worried. Did you see a microscope in her apartment? 

LOL,
B.

[bevinmacrae]

Um, no. But you should have seen the treadle that she found in the TRASH by the side of the road! Now that's finding treasure! Her kitty was also taken out as trash at one point as well. Then it met Anna and the two are quite happy together.
~bevin

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

I personally have $5 riding on Anna Worden. Where IS Anna lately, anyway? Anna? Are you okay? Did the children riot and take you down with them?

I am here now. The school was on February recess following a variety of snow/freezing days where the busses stopped working.  I don't actually own a microscope for looking at fabric. I do how ever work in the center of 14 science rooms fully equipt with microscopes.

Anna

[BarbaraSmith]

Does this mean I owe every member $5, or just Anna Worden? 

I have personally never microscoped my fabric. Maybe I should. I might learn something. 

LOL,
B.

[Pam Robles]

I have one now. Do I get a $5 bonus? 

[BarbaraSmith]

DEFINITELY! The person who actually owns the microscope gets paid. Makes sense. 

LOL,
B.