Hip or Waist measurement?

[LissaWilson]

I am looking to make the Simplicity men's trouser pattern, but I can't figure out which size to cut. DH's true waist measurement is larger than his hip measurement, so which one is more important for the cut of the trousers? I haven't made men's trousers before, but I know with boy's short pants, they are so loose through the hip, that you could just cut a larger waistband and be done with it. Is is the same with men's trousers? Could I cut a smaller size trouser and a larger waistband? If I use the waist measurement as a guide, the hip measurement is several inches too big (which I think is the problem with his current trousers).

[Elaine Kessinger]

You will notice looking at your pattern pieces that there is a back yoke section...when you attach those to the back trouser sections there is a rather signifigant dart in the bum area. To alter the back yoke section will be a pain but if you cut his waist measurement you should be able to take some of the hip area excess out in the bum darts and may be able to taper the curve of the hip at the side. If this is clear as mud..let me know.
Hopefully helpful-
-Elaine

[Carolann Schmitt]

Use his waist measurement taken at the period waistline. If this is the Martha McCain pattern, it runs a bit large. Compare your husband's measurements to the finished measurements on the pattern pieces; you may have to drop down a size. 

Note: Period trousers fit and feel very different from modern trousers. You can take in the hips if necessary, but don't do it until he's tried sitting down in them. He'll need that extra room in the hips to be able to sit and move without 'blowouts'. You really can't use boy's trousers as a reference; the cut and fit is very different.

Second Note: If this is the Martha McCain pattern, it has a lot of very authentic details that are not included on other patterns, i.e. the buttonhole in the front waistband seam. I urge you not to take short cuts and eliminate them. They may seem fiddly, but the pattern - drafted from original trousers - is very accurate.

I've also had good results with the Past Patterns Summer Civilian trousers, which can be made in any fabric.

Regards,
Carolann

[Jim_Ruley]

I am looking to make the Simplicity men's trouser pattern, but I can't figure out which size to cut. DH's true waist measurement is larger than his hip measurement, so which one is more important for the cut of the trousers? I

Even today, men's tailored trouser patterns are drafted based on the hip size, then adjusted to fit the waist.  Unless this pattern is specifically drafted for "stout fellows" you are probably going to have to not only take in the hips, but reduce the rise.

If you would be interested in a custom drafted trouser pattern using DeVere's 1866 system, send me a PM.

Thanks,

Jim Ruley