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allison0611
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« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2009, 02:25:49 PM » |
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An illustration would be very helpful, Thank you! I think I understand about gathering the bottom part and seaming it onto the top part of the yoke, but I'm still a little bit confused about the placket and buttonholes and where they would go.
Thank you!
Allison
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allison0611
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« Reply #21 on: February 19, 2009, 09:45:57 AM » |
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I'm still confused about where the placket would go...I can't visualize how it would fit into the yoke  Help? I also thought of another question- would all nightgowns, or atleast the majority of them, have been yoked, or was that just a particular style? Are there other styles? I like the idea of a yoked nightgown, I'm just wondering if there are other options Thank you, Allison |
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Glenna Jo Christen
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« Reply #22 on: February 19, 2009, 11:46:01 AM » |
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Yoked tops were Very popular, so popular in fact that it was possible to purchase yokes and cuffs already trimmed with white soutache, machine made whitework embroidery, etc. I saw an ad many years ago in a display and a couple of the nightgowns in my collection appear to be made with just such purchased yokes and cuff sets as the rest of the gown is make of slightly different white cotton fabric. BTW, good quality sheeting or good quality pima cotton are both good choices for nightgowns as they are similar to that used in the originals I've seen.
If I can get my act together at a time when the light is good and I can haul up a dress form from the basement and have the camera batteries all charged, etc. I will take some photos of the ones in my collection and share them here.
Until I take and post the photos, I can try to explain how the placket works with a yoke in words. Simply put, all the night gowns in my collection open all the way down the front. The button side of the front opening is just folded back as a simple facing. The button home side was folded over to the outside with the raw edge folded back to the inside and then the entire placket was top stitched down about 1/8 inch from each edge. The result looks rather like the front of a man's business shirt placket. The yokes were arranged to butt up against the placket on one side and just next to where it would lay on the other side.
Unlike most dress yokes, the nightgown ones tend to come down to a very deep center front point and a somewhat shallower point in back, but still deeper than is typical on dresses. An option for sleeves is a Very modest bishop sleeve along with coat sleeves. The point is comfort without a lot of bulk. After all who wants to have their sleeve caught under your husband's (or sister if you are young and living at home) shoulder as you sleep? ;-)
Glenna Jo Christen
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"Accuracy is a process, not a final result, because the goal of accuracy keeps moving as we keep learning and share what we've learned." - Glenna Jo Christen
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allison0611
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« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2009, 01:44:14 PM » |
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Hmm...I think I understand what you are saying, Glenna Jo. I wasn't planning on making my night gown open all the way down the front- is there a way I can do it without having to make it open all the way? Thank you for the information on yoked tops- that's really interesting! I'd love to see some of your photos, if you get a chance Thank you, Allison |
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Glenna Jo Christen
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« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2009, 02:32:17 PM » |
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Hmm...I think I understand what you are saying, Glenna Jo. I wasn't planning on making my night gown open all the way down the front- is there a way I can do it without having to make it open all the way?
I guess you could make it the same way a shirt placket is done with a tuck at the bottom of the opening the width of the placket above it. At least one woman didn't like having her nightgown unbutton the whole way either as she (or someone else later?) sewed it shut to about hip level. The same thing was done to a couple wrappers in my collection as well. It sure beats fastening all those buttons! Glenna Jo |
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"Accuracy is a process, not a final result, because the goal of accuracy keeps moving as we keep learning and share what we've learned." - Glenna Jo Christen
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allison0611
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« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2009, 04:42:22 PM » |
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That's good to know. Thank you for replying! I'll let you know if I have any more questions Allison |
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Glenna Jo Christen
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« Reply #26 on: March 01, 2009, 01:45:51 PM » |
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Well I took photos of my wrappers, but I'm not sure how to put them up here... Any suggestions?
In the process of taking the photos I decided I needed the space more than I needed three nightgowns so I am putting one of them up on eBay tonight. I'm listing it cheap if anyone is interested as it has some damage, but still great for study and to pull a pattern. We sell under mrandmrsciv if anyone is looking. If nothing else there will be photos of that one up there!
Glenna Jo Christen
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"Accuracy is a process, not a final result, because the goal of accuracy keeps moving as we keep learning and share what we've learned." - Glenna Jo Christen
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Elaine Kessinger
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« Reply #27 on: May 05, 2009, 07:59:35 AM » |
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I made a mistake when I was making my nightgown and it is too short, even on me  . I think I could add a piece to the bottom concealing the join in a series of tucks (a la growth tucks) and it wouldn't look terrible, but as tucks weren't done on nightgowns in this manner can anyone thing of a more period apropriate way to fix this? -Elaine |
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E L Watkins-Morris
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« Reply #28 on: May 05, 2009, 01:27:13 PM » |
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I personally would just adjust the length so the seam join wouldn't get sat or laid on, fell the seam to the outside and forget it.
The extra ridges from the tucks potentially digging into hip bones would make me nuts. Nothing one can really do about the "bunch" factor though is there?
Liz W.
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Materium Superbat Opus-Ovid
Simple yet complex...-Mark Baldridge, Art 101: The Principles of Design
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Elaine Kessinger
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« Reply #29 on: May 06, 2009, 06:08:15 AM » |
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Thanks Mrs. Watkins-Morris.  It's at my knees, just not to below-calf the way it should be.... Anyone else like to offer a period looking solution before I just "get 'er done"? -Elaine |
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BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #30 on: June 28, 2012, 05:44:35 PM » |
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I'm dragging up a really old thread in the interest of keeping information together.
I'm making a yoked nightgown with a true yoke. The fabric I chose is a 45"-wide kona cotton. I really hate being constricted when I sleep, so I want something nice and roomy. Being a lady of...ahem...considerable hip-girth, I'm worried that two panels of 45"-wide fabric are not going to be wide enough .
So, what are my options? Can I add in panels at the side? Enlarge the side-gussets so they go up farther? There really is nothing worse than a constricting nightgown...
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Beth Chamberlain
Scribblor Infinitus
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« Reply #31 on: June 28, 2012, 05:57:24 PM » |
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I haven't looked at mid century nightwear at all so I have no historical context for you. But, 90" is pretty full. I come from a long line of excessively hippy women and in all the nightgowns I've made (let's just say that's many, one person was probably @ 58"-60" at the hip) I've never made them more full than that. Too full and you risk getting tangled in them.
Beth
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Men are made in the image of God. Gentlemen are manufactured by tailors, barbers, and bootblacks. Woman is the last and most perfect work of God. Ladies are the productions of silk-worms, milliners
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BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #32 on: July 02, 2012, 08:47:49 PM » |
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Thanks for the reassurance! I cut it out and you are right, there is plenty of room with just the two widths of fabric.
Another question - I am making a nightgown with a yoked front and back. Does one gather evenly across the upper edge of the lower rectangles to fit the yokes, or should the gathers be controlled in one area or another? I've seen some nightgowns where the gathers in the front are in the bust area only - but I'm not finding any illustrations for the back. How should the back be gathered?
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