Fitting problem with frock coat

[J-Waters]

Google has some on-line publications including some for cutters of 1870s called The West-End Gazette of Gentlemen's Fashions (London). In one of these- September 1870, volume 9, number 99, or googles pages 112-113 of the pdf- One cutter is answering a question about larger around the chest and larger shoulders that another cutter is asking. So a person of 5' 8" with a chest of 38" you are looking at a proportionate person. But, change the chest to 48 and the coat does not fit. So the depth of the armhole needs to be deeper by adding height at the neck and shoulders about 1/2".

Another way to think about it is, if you take a tape around the chest of a proportionate person and with another tape and measure up over the shoulder and back down from front to back and then do that to somebody (same height) of 52" chest you will find that the over the should front and back will be of a longer lenght. So if you put your pattern front and back together at the shoulder, seam to seam, and measure the over shoulder measure you would have an idea of how much to add above the chest line.

[bevinmacrae]

I agree that if you aren't comfortable with it, don't do it. I've gotten myself into a few pickles by attempting things I maybe shouldn't have. I learned things, but it wasn't always positive!

I did finally get the coat to work. I settled with draping the pattern. It came so close I almost cried! So I made the garment up, finsihed it and he came over for a fitting. Well, to my eye it fit like a dream, but to him, it was still slightly tight right across the front of his shoulders. However, he could move quite easily. I stretched the wool some with steam, and it improved, but only slightly (I have a feeling the fabric had not the wool content it really should have, he provided it) I said to take it as is since I really couldn't see any way to get more fabric in there to allow more ease. I told him I'd ask some tailor friends (you guys) about it and took alot of pictures (even though he WOULD NOT hold still!!!) Then I didn't give it another thought as things got busy.

This past weekend he wore it out for the first time. It again looked like it fit perfect to me. So I was eager to see what he thought. well, he said the thing felt perfect! It "must have stretched out a bit from wearing it"! So I'm really glad I stuck to my guns and didn't try to take it apart yet again! But Whew! It was almost a year in the making! yuck!

So now I've learned that if the man does not fit the usual Devere's profiles, to just drape the pattern like I do for the ladies. Makes like easier. I was never good at math anyway!
bevin

[Joseph Stevens]

So now I've learned that if the man does not fit the usual Devere's profiles, to just drape the pattern like I do for the ladies. Makes like easier. I was never good at math anyway!

That's why I took Jim's suggestion and inputted at the values into an Excel spreadsheet.  I just plunk in the fist series of measures, and the spreadsheet calculates all the points on the pattern for me.

[Dean McElroy]

..I'm proud of you,Bevin!..congratulations..I'm tellin' ya..dressmaking is where it is at for fitting...way to go with what you know!

-DM

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[J-Waters]

Glad it turned out well.

And, hoped it would.

[bevinmacrae]

I have Jim's wonderful spreadsheets, too. And when I originally drafted the pattern for him, everything worked except his darned shoulders! But those things were just too much to calculate though. Laying the fabric was the only thing I could have done.

Thank you, gentlemen. Your encouragement and lengthy descriptions on how to fix this problem (sight unseen I might add!) mean alot to me. That you would generously donate years of your own professional experience to help me speaks to your characters!

Yeah, so draping and drafting working hand in hand (draping for the torso and drafting for sleeves and skirt) might just be the way to go.
Bevin