Documentation of Hem Lengths and Ages

[atlantashannon]

Is it really appropriate to have one's hair down long with only a headband or such confining it? My hair is about 4" past my shoulder. what sort of 'headband' is period?

It seems like I've seen little girls with their hair up in a bun or something in fashion plates...? Am I seeing this wrong, or is that only a high-fashion thing?

[Elizabeth]

The thing is, if a girl is in the last stages of transition, she may well be wearing (according to photographic evidence) adult hairstyles, adult bodices, adult sleeves--and youthful skirts.

Conversely, there are images of girls wearing adult-length skirts with youthful bodices and adult hair, and they're *not* adult evening wear images.

So again, there's no "rule" about adult hair/adult skirts--which makes it harder for those who are used to rules.  

I agree that there are some great youthful hairstyles, like braids down the back, or pinned up braids, or hair left loose and banded for indoor/party settings (loose hair is not something you want around livestock, for instance.  Muck.)

Most of the images I've seen of girls (little through teen) with their hair apparently "clubbed up" and confined have decorative nets over them; in the early growing-out stages from a cropped girlhood style (one possible option for girls), this hair may even be loose in the short, clubbed up net... it's different from the "hair as wet spaghetti in a tablecloth snood" often seen on reenactors, though.

I've got a project this afternoon, but I'll keep a lookout for some teen hairstyle images for 40-65.

[Nona Nelson]

Oh dear, Elizabeth! You must me related to my mother!  She always says my hair looks like wet spaghetti or dirty spaghetti when my hair is all greasey! I myself kind of like the greasey look. lol

[Anna G.]

I found a pic of a teen girl in Dressed for the Photographer (page 148), and thought I'd share. The girl in the pic is Clara Stebbins Lathrop, and the picture is dated 1854-1856. The style of her dress is very interesting, with the skirts sticking out in the back, sore of like a bustle. She is definitely wearing short sleeves, though!

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q221/MissAnnaG/Period%20Photos/TeenGirl.jpg

[Elizabeth]

I do like that one.  Her skirts aren't sticking out any further than would be normal in a petticoat or hoop-supported dress.  That padded, rounded look is ideal for the 40s, 50s and early 60s, though things change somewhat in the middle 60s.

[atlantashannon]

I was wondering, would be proper for a girls with shorter-than-adult skirts to wear a dress with a wider, child's neckline and long sleeves on the same dress?
thanks...

[Chessa_Swing]

Thats how my dress is...  I hope its correct 

[Lydia_Prescott]

If I'm the only " lady" of the house would my hems be long and style be " grown up " ?

[Joanna Jones]

If I'm the only " lady" of the house would my hems be long and style be " grown up " ?

Well.. I'm sure it depends on your age and responsibilities and economic status - what are they?  As the" lady" are you managing the house and doing the adult work?  Or does someone else have the ultimate responsibility (like your father, or a housekeeper) because you are too young yet be in charge, although you are the only woman?  Have you put aside childish ways to take on these responsibilities, or are you able to (because of your father's wealth, perhaps) continue to do things young ladies like to do - picnics and parties and school and etc?  In other words, if you are taking on adult responsibilities, you wear the adult clothes, assuming you are anywhere near adult age (teenage years), and if you are able to live like a carefree young lady, you wear the clothes of one. 

Of course, I may get corrected on this opinion!   

Joanna

[Angie Huff]

Ok since everyone is already on the subject...
One of my sisters is going to be 15 in May. I just finished her dress, and I let her choose the style. She chose an adult dress, long hem, and front fastening bodice. She is already 5' 7" so it seemed appropriate enough, and from what I've seen it was a personal choice.  So is it ok if she does her hair in braids or does it need to be up? Also, since she is in adult styles, does she need a white collar, and should she wear a pinafore or an apron? Sorry for all the questions, I am just beginning to learn about children's styles.

PS - My 11 yr old sister really doesn't want to wear drawers. Since she is wearing a hem just above mid calf does she need to?
or Will her stockings and petticoat be enough?

[Elizabeth]

At just 15, I'd keep the front fastening, but keep the skirts youthful a tad with a growth tuck or two, to bring it about a palm's width above her ankle bones.  Even with youthful skirts, white accessories are absolutely okay, and since there's a lot of overlap on aprons/pinafores right through this last stage of girlhood, it could really go either way.  If she tends to slop things down her front, go with a pinafore. 

For the 11yo... drawers are a necessity.  What is it she doesn't like about them?  At her age, closed drawers are perfectly okay; the transition to split drawers seems to come when stays are worn, so if she's not needing those, the drawers will feel a lot like baggy capris, and will button closed at the side waist.  Let's find out her dislikes, and see if there's a period solution.

[Angie Huff]

Elizabeth,
I think she is just warm.  She is a bit heavy and just gets worn out and hot with all the layers. She was so excited when I told her that her skirts could be shorter!  When I said we needed to make her a set of drawers, I think all she thought was "something else to wear!?!" To me I get just as warm in shorts as in my full outfit(and I look much worse in shorts!), but I guess to her mind, more clothes = more heat. Maybe I should just make some and let her "test drive" them once to prove that it's not that bad.

[Elizabeth]

Do that--and make sure they're in nice cool cotton, with a leg wide enough to let a good amount of air up around her legs.  She'll be far cooler in a cage than with just petticoats, too, if she can be convinced to not do somersaults.   A very small cage will hold her petticoats away from her body, and give a nice cool breeze.

I'd say work with the open necklines and short sleeves; she'll be cooler in those than anything else, particularly if you use nearly-sheer cottons for the dress (prints or plaids).

[Angie Huff]

Thanks Elizabeth,
And one more question, you said prints and plaids, are solid colors not authentic in cotton? Or would prints and plaids just be better for a little girl (less stains)?

[Elizabeth]

Solid color cottons just don't show up a lot in plates, descriptions, or extant dresses so far.  Prints and patterns are very common for cottons; if you want a solid color, I'd recommend wool or silk, as either will hold the color very nicely.  Wool will also be quite easy-care--just look for tropical or summer-weight wool broadcloth.

[Angie Huff]

Thanks, I had been wondering about that

[Lydia_Prescott]

Well.. I'm sure it depends on your age and responsibilities and economic status - what are they?  As the" lady" are you managing the house and doing the adult work?  Or does someone else have the ultimate responsibility (like your father, or a housekeeper) because you are too young yet be in charge, although you are the only woman?  Have you put aside childish ways to take on these responsibilities, or are you able to (because of your father's wealth, perhaps) continue to do things young ladies like to do - picnics and parties and school and etc?  In other words, if you are taking on adult responsibilities, you wear the adult clothes, assuming you are anywhere near adult age (teenage years), and if you are able to live like a carefree young lady, you wear the clothes of one. 

Sorry it has taking me soo long to get back to you !!  School and Spring Cleaning has swept me away ! ( no pun intended !!    )

What I mean by " Lady of the house " is I'm the only female in my home tending to everything a Papa, 2 brothers, a farm with a normal amount of animals and field land, and occasionaly some sewing or laundry work from various other ladies in the area. To answer your question about age and stuff, I'm 15 years old and my father is a fairly well off farmer

[Joanna Jones]

OK, I'm gonna throw out some questions and see what bites    If your father is "well off" would you be taking in laundry and sewing in addition to the cares of the men and the farm?  That sounds like a lot of work!  If he is truly well off, what are the odds that you might have a housekeeper or "girl" come in daily or part time to help?  15 years old sounds awfully young to manage all of that by yourself unless you have to.  If he is not really well off, then it seems reasonable to put your hair up but keep your skirts shorter, both due to the realities of hard farm work. Are you still in school?

 Someone with more experience please chime in!!

Here is Elizabeth's answer to someone about another 15 yo girl:

At just 15, I'd keep the front fastening, but keep the skirts youthful a tad with a growth tuck or two, to bring it about a palm's width above her ankle bones. Even with youthful skirts, white accessories are absolutely okay, and since there's a lot of overlap on aprons/pinafores right through this last stage of girlhood, it could really go either way. If she tends to slop things down her front, go with a pinafore.

Joanna

[Elizabeth]

Dittos with Joanna... "taking in laundry" and "well-off farmer" don't go together.  If he's well-off, you can anticipate someone hired in, either for daily work, or living on-premises as a full-time housekeeper (this may be a single adult female relative who manages some daily paid girl for the heavy work), and you still being in school.  You can also expect a few hired-in hands, and your brothers in school.  As a 15yo school-girl, you might well keep back-fastening bodice for another year, or you could be making the transition to front-fastening bodices, and your skirts will generally hover somewhere above the ankles (low calf to above ankle).

If everyone is sweating for the daily bread, if you're doing farm chores and laundry, it's a working-class farm, not well-off, and that's pretty cool, too.  For that, you are likely transitioning to front-fastening bodices, but keeping shorter skirts for mobility and ease. 

Either way, you have options, but it's important to get the background clarified before deciding what roles you'd be likely to fill. 

[billclark]

Ok well my sister is 15 as well.  We have decided that her impression will be that of the daughter of a rather well off southern family, this will be suplmented by my friend playing as her chaperone/ hired girl, accompaning her.  Prior to us deciding on this impression I started a cotton work dress for her to wear around camp, seeing as she will be in camp at mainstream civil war events.  I used the martha macain gathered bodice pattern, I havent finished it yet but I used the sleeve option that is full at the top and more fitted at the forearm, this was her choice.  I am waiting on her corset before I finish it.  If the skirts are shorter is this correct, the sleeves? They seem like an older style, and I think I messed up by making them, but they are already cut, I have thought about making them short sleeves but then the dress would only be usable in the summer.  suggestions?  ok ik this is long but I have questions...

 For her next set of clothing I am going with the upper class impression.  I am going with the more fashion forward look of the white blouse and colored skirt.  I am making the blouse out of a very fine sheer cotton window pane which is almost a perfect match with an extant blouse I have photos of.  The skirt I am going with a tropical wool.  Now the matter of a cage, shes veryyyyyy tall, 5' 11'', with the fashion forward dress should her cage be larger?  or a small 90 inch one?  is this ensemble even a good idea or is it already over represented and I should avoid it even if it done correctly and not in cotton calico .  Would a sheer be a better option?  I have asked her and she said "I'd like both" , shes not getting both...

Well thanks for reading this insanly long post!


Bill