Adapting Splice and spread

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

I have a sheer dress to work on soonish that I may need some help with. The wearer still needs to come for her toile. So, this is preliminary thought based on a couple measurements she gave me. Right now she has a 5 inch difference from her waist to her bust. I want to add a little fullness to gather in the waist without adding much to above the bust. I want the waist to appear narrower and the rest of the bodice to look relaxed but not full.

I figure I would splice the bodice from waist to shoulder in 2 or three places. Then spread the splices at an angle leaving the shoulder area not spread. My concern is, how much is to much? If I spread the splices at the waist an inch each, the side seams will angle out significantly.

A second factor is this dress will need to be alterable over several years.

Anna

[Ginger Lane]

Anna, that's essentially how I made my own gathered bodice pattern.  Here's a picture that shows the dancing dress bodice.  (Warning - the picture is quite large.)  I'm not sure of the bust/waist difference, but undoubtedly it's more than five inches.

I didn't swing the pattern out scientifically.  (Meaning I didn't measure it.)  But it was significant, and the side seams are at quite an angle.  I was worried before I made my muslin that it would be too full.  Boy, was I wrong!  I was a little disappointed, actually; it's definitely gathered, but not really that full at all.  If I ever get around to using a really delicate sheer, I'll definitely draft a fuller pattern.

I'd advise that whatever you go with will not be too much. 

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

Thanks Ginger. I will have to check out the picture at a different computer. (The school has blocked livejournal.) 

Did you end up with the fullness in just the lower part of the bodice? I just don't want make this girl look to big and fluffy.

Anna

[Ginger Lane]

Oops, I never thought of that.  Try this.

The fullness is definitely in the lower part only.

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

That's exactly what I want to accomplish. I roughly guess-estimate that the spread waist-line will extend 1.5 to  3 inches beyond the bust width of the front pattern pieces. Is this about what you found?

Anna

[Ginger Lane]

I'll measure my pattern when I get home.  I'll try to take a pic of it, too, so you can see the proportions.