Buttonholes on the bias

[bevinmacrae]

How do I stabilize a buttonhole cut on a slant (such as Devere's indicates is used on the top button of a Double breasted coat) so that it doens't pucker with the stretch of the fabric?
Bevin

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Bevin,

It's a good idea to back all buttonholes with a strip of linen, especially in thin or ravelly fabrics.  This gives the stitches something else to hold onto and, since the linen may be cut on the straight grain, will eliminate any stretch due to being on the bias.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[J-Waters]

Another method is pocketing between the layers. Some tailors do all their button holes that way.

It is also a good idea to bast all the way around the hole through all layers before cutting and sewing.

[bevinmacrae]

Live and learn! The buttonholes were fine when i was making them, but after a few "uses" they started looking all puckery. I basted around them and everything. No linen backing though. That would have made all the difference.
Pocketing, I had wondered if those type of buttonholes were used. I mean, you don't have to do all those stitches on them, right? Or am I thinking of a bound buttonhole? So what's a pocketed buttonhole?
Bevin

[J-Waters]

Some tailors put pocketing between the layer and when they cut the hole for the pocket they will trim some canvas away from the edge that way when they sew with twist they are sewing through the garment cloth and the pocketing (pocketing is just a stabilizer).

Perhaps you are talking about these kind of button holes?

http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Phil'sjackets/redcoats_are_coming.htm

[Jim_Ruley]

Pocketing, I had wondered if those type of buttonholes were used. I mean, you don't have to do all those stitches on them, right? Or am I thinking of a bound buttonhole?

Hi Bevin,

J-Waters has clarified that he was talking about using pocketing material as a layer of interfacing.  I think you were thinking of a bound buttonhole.  These look just like a minature double welted pocket, and I think are made the same way (I've never attempted one).  That is, put the binding material face down on the coat, sew around the slit, slit the hole open and turn the binding through.  I don't know if another layer of binding is used on the back side or if the material from the front is turned under and felled down.  I understand this kind of buttonhole is often found on Confederate officer's coats made in Louisiana and elsewhere in the Deep South, leading some to speculate that it's due to French or Spanish tailoring influence.  Any better information on the subject would be welcome.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[J-Waters]

http://vintagesewing.info/1930s/33-pt/pt-03.html#material

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