Pattern layout

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

Elizabeth,

Do you remember the thread we had on the previous site version that discussed ways to squeeze the most out of fabric by stratigic pattern cutting and a moderate bit of piecing? Can we recreate parts of that? I do remember the general concept. But, I know it would be very helpful for others.

I also have a twist on the topic. A friend bought me a length of sheer cotton yesterday at a steal. All that was left was just over 6 yards. I think barely 4" over. It is 44 inches wide. I am trying to figure out if I can squeeze a dress for me out of it or if I should offer it to a teen friend who can do a shorter skirt and short sleeves. With it being a sheer, I think I want 4 panels giving me a 176" or 156" hem depending on the approach. What I have mentally figured, leaves me with no turn hem, like I would like to have for a sheer. If I run half of each coat sleeve along 2 panels as well as the section for the piping, that leaves the front, solid back and the rest of the sleeves for the remaining 1 1/2 yards. My bodice pattern tends to run 18-20 in length - But, a new toile will likely be shorter since I have had to shorten most of my bodices. I think it would be a very tight squeeze and limit what I do.

The fabric really wants to have a creative componant. Plus, do I really need a third sheer dress?

Anyway, layout suggestions for either a sheer adult dress or a teen dress, both larger sizes?

Anna

[Joanna Jones]

Could the hem be made from another sheer, white fabric with the tiniest of seams?

"Plus, do I really need a third sheer dress? "   what kind of question is that?   Do you need to eat, to breathe?  You are a dressmaker! Of course you always need another dress!   

[Carolann Schmitt]

It will be tight, Anna, but I think you can make it work. I wouldn't go any narrower than 3 1/2 panels in the skirt. That will give you half a panel for either the bodice front or most of the sleeves.  You can always conceal small pieced sections under the arms on the bodice or in the sleeves. And you can use a lightweight cotton for the hem facing.

Carolann

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

Thank you. I will sketch out two layouts, one for me, one for a friend. Then see who will get the fabric.

Are we sure 154" will be enough fullness with a sheer? My hoops range from 90" to 110" plus petticoats.

Am I remembering right, coat sleeves take less fabric than bishop?

Anna

[Carolann Schmitt]

Personally, I like a fuller skirt, especially for a sheer, but it will probably work if the dress is worn over several petticoats for "foof". I"d cut the panels for the skirt, lay out the bodice pieces, see how much you have left for sleeves, and then decide if you have to take any fabric out of one of the skirt panels before you put the skirt together. You can get the piping out of the bits and pieces where you cut out the neckline and armsyces and the gaps in between the bodice pieces. You'll be piecing a lot of bias strips, but it will work.

Two other options, if you can find a fabric in a similar weight and appropriate color:
-  Insert a horizontal strip of the constrasting fabric into the skirt. The band should be about 1/4-1/3 the distance from the floor, and would be especially pretty if it was shirred or pleated vertically. Insert a strip of the same fabric with the same treatment into the sleeves. You may have to back the strips with a second layer of lightweight fabric for support.
-  I once had the opportunity to examine an original re-worked dress that had vertical strips of a contrasting fabric between each panel of the skirt. There were six panels 25" wide, and 6 strips 4" wide in the skirt. Each edge of each strip were accented with a narrow (less than 1/2" wide) edging. The same vertical strip treatment was used on either side of the center front and center back of the dress, as well as on the center of each sleeve. The bodice was gathered front and back, so the contrasting stripes created a V effect. Lots of piecing but it looked very nice.

Coat sleeves usually take less fabric than a bishop sleeve; it depends on the cut of the sleeve. But I'm not fond of coat sleeves in a sheer dress. How about a bishop sleeve gathered into a loose band below the elbow, with a nice full open undersleeve underneath it. The shorter length will take less fabric.

Carolann

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

I like both second fabric suggestions. I will think about that idea. The colors wouldn't be hard to match, black, tan and white.

I too prefer a fuller skirt.

I wasn't sure about the coat sleeves in a sheer. If they were to save me a good deal of fabric, great. If not, I would rather have something that will sit nicer. The sorter bishop sleeve with a nice undersleeve, is very doable.

I was just over looking at Anna Allen's picture collection. I really just wish I was a teen again to be able to have short sleeves. Some of those sleeves are adorable.

I'll also have to see if she likes it.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Anna

[Elizabeth]

Nothing to add really--with some creative piecing and the use of additional sheer for backings, insertions, etc, you could have something really nifty!  I wouldn't readily give it up unless I really, really liked the teenager.

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

After I was functional yesterday (I had one of my fun migraines. But the good news is by the second dose of my medicine, I was knocked out and finally got actual sleep) I did measured sketches of the layout. Of course these are sitting on my coffee table at home. I can actually fit the bodice and sleeves on 54 by 44 inch length of fabric. Then I measured the fabric to double check the store. It is 6 yards 12 inches not 4 inches. This means I will have a little more to turn over at the top of the skirt and still have enough for the bodice.


Anna

[Elizabeth]

If you need to stretch those inches really far:

Do a faced hem at the bottom (white facing), and use a white strip as a facing at the top edge, too--you'll only need about 1/4" to attach the facing, and then can pleat or gauge through the facing/sheer there.  It will help eeeeeek out just a smidge more, though the extra may be a weird little angly strip.

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

I was planning on facing the hem and the top edge before I remeasured the fabric. It looks like I will be able to get 42" panels out of the fabric. I will recheck my hem lengths to see if I have anything to turn over on the top. Since I would normally add a layer of white cotton to the top pleating or gauging, facing the top may be the best direction still.

Anna

[BarbaraSmith]

Hey Anna! How about splitting the front of the skirt and doing an underskirt? Or at least a "faux" underskirt. I understand some of those split front dresses are really just trims made to look like they are split over an underskirt. I can totally see piecing in a pie-shaped gore of something else to make it look like an underskirt.

Cheers,
B.

[Anna Worden Bauersmith]

That's a maybe, if sheer dresses, not evening or ball, were done this way. Anyone with pics or originals?

Anna

[Carolann Schmitt]

The only sheer dress with a split front that I've found was a sheer white wedding dress with a split front overskirt worn over an underskirt of the same fabric. It's pictured in From Queen to Empress.

And I've looked at a lot of altered and re-worked dresses and don't recall seeing one with a pie-shaped insert in the skirt. A straight panel, with a corresponding insert in the center of the bodice, but not a wedge in the skirt.

The "trimmed to look like a split skirt or overskirt" was in fashion for a period c.1862-1863, but I've never seen it done in anything but silk or wool, and none of those were sheer.

Carolann

[BarbaraSmith]

Ah well, pie-shaped was my assumption from looking at the fashion plate.  And reading costuming books in bed after taking Benadryl isn't doing much for my knowledge retention... 

Pity it might not be an option here. Oh well, I tried. 

And, as for NEEDING 3 sheers, I'm with JoAnna about "need," but I have to also add that you're fast becoming our Fashion Celebrity here, Anna, and we count on you to have more pretty dresses than anyone. You're sort of like our own reeancting version of Paris Hilton. We tune in daily to find out what you'll be wearing next! 

Personally, I think you're WAY more interesting then Paris Hilton. 

Hee hee hee!
B.