Topstitching Question

[Doug Frank]

Hello all,

After pondering on topstitching after looking at the trousers thread, I have a question regarding hand topstitching on coats.  If one uses a backstitch of either persuasion while topstitching around the edges, what does one do when the "front" (say, down the front of the coat) becomes the "back" with the turn of the lapel?  Is there a point where one ends a run of topstitching and then starts another so that the "finished" side of the stitch shows?  Is a different stitc typically used?  Or, is this something noone was much concerned with?  Or, as is often the case, have I missed something obvious by thinking about it in my head versus thinking about it while looking at a coat?  Thanks for your thoughts.

Doug Frank

[Jim_Ruley]

Hi Doug,

A related subject is addressed in the 1901 "Tailor's Guide" by P.N. Hasluck.  He recommends cutting the facing a little wider above the crease line (turn of lapel), and a little narrower underneath.  After it is sewn on it is pressed so the seam is not visible from the front side.  In practice, you can achieve the same thing by "underbasting" or "overbasting" the facing while using the same pattern piece.

When I reach the crease line on a jacket made in this manner, I keep the edges together for about half an inch on either side of the crease line, pass the needle through and leave an interrupted stitch (like a half backstitch) showing on both sides.  I then reverse my topstitching (as you observed) so the half stitches are on the outside.  I also work the buttonholes on whichever side is intended to show; lapel side above the crease, coat side below.

Thanks,

Jim Ruley

[Doug Frank]

Jim,

As always, many thanks.  When I could this weekend, I was working on one of the flap pockets.  So far...so good.  I will say this - what a relief it is to sew with nice material versus loose jean fabric.  The fact that I don't have to worry about it fraying every time I even glance at the fabric is one less thing to worry about.

Doug