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Author Topic: finishing the bodice neckline  (Read 963 times)
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Kristyn
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« on: October 08, 2007, 07:44:27 AM »

Hello!
    I have a question.  Being new to forum, I don't know if this has been addressed yet, but how do you finish the neckline on the bodice so one can attach/deattach the collar without pulling out the bodice fabric?  I've read that bias is used, but the seem is also commonly piped.  So, do you sew a layer of pping on the seam and then cover the raw edges with bias fabric?  I'm confused... Shocked  Thanks for any help!
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bevinmacrae
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« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2007, 08:24:41 AM »

I usually make piping. The same type you use to put into the armseye. It's a very small cord covered with a bias strip about 1 1/2 inch wide of the dress fabric. You use a zipper foot or do by hand to put in the cord.

To put it on the neckline, place the piping on the right side of the dress with the raw edges pointing into the neck edge. The piping will be furthese away from the edge.

Leave a little bit hanging off the edge at the begginning.

 Next, take your zipper foot, or by hand, and sew right up next to the little roll of piping. Go all around the neckline.

Then with the little tails at beginning and end, you open the bias strip up, trim out the piping to the neckline edge, then fold the bias back on itself to create a fold at the edge instead of a raw edge.

Next, trim the under layers of bias away so you have just the top layer. Press down the bias so that the piping  creates the neckline edge.

Fold the bias raw edge under and whip stitch it down. This makes a nice finished edge to attach a collar to. I like to use a piped piece of bias b/c it really helps to make a nice crisp edge on the neckline. Now, I'm sure I've explained this badly, hopefully Liz will chime in soon and give clearer directions!
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Bevin MacRae

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Elizabeth
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« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2007, 08:27:43 AM »

Bevin, you've explained it pretty well. Smiley  Dressmaker's Guide has illustrations for it.


The collar has it's own bias-fabric binding; this binding is laid on the inside of the neckline, and basted down with long running stitches that catch the neckline bias-binding or piping seam allowance, rather than going through all the neckline layers.

Does that help explain it a bit?
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Regards,
Elizabeth
Kristyn
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« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2007, 08:45:32 AM »

Thank you!  I have a copy of the Dressmaker's Guide and see where it talks about making collars - I definitely plan on using that when i finish the dress.  For clarification on my part - the piping and bias go on the neckline of the bodice. 

Bevin, I'm a little confused on this part - having trouble picturing it - Then with the little tails at beginning and end, you open the bias strip up, trim out the piping to the neckline edge, then fold the bias back on itself to create a fold at the edge instead of a raw edge.

Next, trim the under layers of bias away so you have just the top layer. Press down the bias so that the piping  creates the neckline edge.


Are you trimming the actual thread that is the pipe? or the bias fabric "tails" around the pipe?  Oh!  I think i get it.  you trim only the neckline side of the piping so the top side is long and can wrap over the raw edges.  Is that it?
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2007, 09:57:58 AM »

The cording inside the piping is trimmed back a tad, so that you don't have double bulk (quadruple by the time you fasten the bodice!) at the center neckline. 

The seam allowances of the dress neckline and the inner-most bias-piping allowance are trimmed to again reduce bulk, and yes, the outermost bias-piping allowance is left intact to wrap around or cover the trimmed/raw edges.

I think you've got it!
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Elizabeth
Kristyn
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« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2007, 10:13:55 AM »

YAY!  Thank you so much for all your help.
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