How bad is Simplicity?

[Amanda L]

So it is that time of the year again, when I start reading and posting here gearing up for Dickens.
Hubby refuses to go unless he has the right clothes, specifically the coat.
Now I tend to lean towards the mid to late 50's but 60's would be fine too.
He will need everything. (heck I might even be making his brother a shirt and vest if he comes)
I have all the Simplicity patterns, I have the Laughing moon coat pattern, and I have Edward Minister' practical cutting (1853)

I was thinking of squares and rectangles shirt for his brother (who tend to be a working class kind of guy) though possibly more fitted for my huband who tends to be a finer dresser.

So how horrid are the Simplicity patterns? do I need to heavily modify them or should I toss them all together?

The laughing moon coat and vests?

Should I get another set of patterns or a different drafting book? (I have no trouble talking hubby into book or patterns as long as they appeal to him)

I am good at math and can draft.

[lindym]

As far as Simplicity goes, I really like the pants from #5023. They go together nicely and fit great. There have been a number of posts that have discussed this in the mens wear.

[Tom_Nixon]

Amanda:

I was thinking of squares and rectangles shirt for his brother (who tend to be a working class kind of guy) though possibly more fitted for my huband who tends to be a finer dresser.

Skip the pattern. I recall from a previous thread that your Brother-In-Law is a fellow seafairing man. If so you're in luck! The 1852 Naval uniform stayed in service until 1866 and is an easy draft. It consists of a jumper drafted entirely from rectangles, 13-button fall-front bell-bottom troswers that you can draft from Minister*, a flat hat (two circles and a band) or a straw hat, and a silk kerchief. The summer uniform was made entirely of white duck. The winter uniform was blue wool -guess which shade **.

Here are the regulations:

http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq59-28.htm




Here are some more pictures of tars:
http://www.navyandmarine.org/historicalref/usn_uniforms/index.htm

Let me know if there's anything I can provide to help.
~Tom

*In the Shep reprint edition the basic trowsers include the calculation for the bell-bottom, which is nowhere near as pronounced as the ones seen in the disco era!

**Embroidery was common, often very elaborate, and very much to the whim of the individual.

[Dean McElroy]

..a man is a sailor if he can make his own clothes(slop?)
-Dean McElroy

[Dean McElroy]

..I do not know anything about the Simplicity patterns,however,it sounds as if you have experience with these..if this is true then I recommend that you stay with them(stay with what you are good at ;)resist the urge to go the politcally correct route in this hobby,go the way of the artist,make sure those pieces you put together look"mahvalous" first...make sure your creations hang and look good first before the political details. Then,when time permits draft them suckers up...now that were on this subject I think I'll check those Simplicity patterns out.... ..but if you are set up for the draft,then you should draft your project,if not,go with the patterns...do not let the research and collection of minutae get in the way of taking action..you don't want to be searching for glass buttons or logwood thread and the like when you could be getting those clothes made...
-Dean McElroy

[Joanna Jones]

As far as your original question goes, I believe the previous discussion has been that the Simplicity patterns for men are fairly accurate:
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=637.0 - Scroll down to Carolann's comments

[Amanda L]

Amanda:

I was thinking of squares and rectangles shirt for his brother (who tend to be a working class kind of guy) though possibly more fitted for my huband who tends to be a finer dresser.

Skip the pattern. I recall from a previous thread that your Brother-In-Law is a fellow seafairing man. If so you're in luck! The 1852 Naval uniform stayed in service until 1866 and is an easy draft. It consists of a jumper drafted entirely from rectangles, 13-button fall-front bell-bottom troswers that you can draft from Minister*, a flat hat (two circles and a band) or a straw hat, and a silk kerchief. The summer uniform was made entirely of white duck. The winter uniform was blue wool -guess which shade **.

Yes he is a sailor, I will have to ask him if he would like to dres as a sailor when he comes back from his 17th cent sailing stint. (he normally does 18th cent)
Thank you for our leads!

[Amanda L]

..a man is a sailor if he can make his own clothes(slop?)
-Dean McElroy

Bro-in-Law can sew as he sewed all 12 sails on his 5th scale brig, but fitting is probably beyond him. Heck last year he sewed my skirt the the waistband!

[Amanda L]

As far as your original question goes, I believe the previous discussion has been that the Simplicity patterns for men are fairly accurate:
http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=637.0 - Scroll down to Carolann's comments

Smacks forehead
I remember reading the beginng of that thread! thanks, I thought this would be a stupid question!

[Dean McElroy]

..bully for him,Amanda!!...a sailor indeed.. ...I once had the opportunity to sail on the Australian reproduction of the Cooke exploration vessel HM Bark Endevour.(A converted coal bark designed for sailing up and down a coastline) But it was somewhat pricey as one had to pay to sail and be a member of the crew. The ship docked at the countries with ties to the Cook voyages and the crews were represetatives of those countries with the Captain an actual Australian Naval commissioned officer.Got a tour of the ship. Learned how to roll up the hammock and store when not in use....mighty temping..this was back in 1999..ship was to dock in Sydney for the 2000 New Years celebration and then be dry docked for maintenace...met with the ships carpenter(was amazed at the ulcers on his leg from all the sea water.)...It's interesting that your relation can sew sails. That is something I would consider..a sailmakers mate..in the Union navy of the Civil War they..I believe ..started out at $19 dollars a month..

Fitting is a..I believe..a developed art or skill. Some intuition and time in the tailoring trade will enhance that intuition. Since your relation has plenty of maritime experience keeping him a sailor would be the best and you could help with the fitting..find someone who can so fitting with you
-Dean McElroy