Unlined Federal Sack Coat

[Jim_Ruley]

I am now making one of these up and thought the company might be interested in some of the techniques involved.  Much will be similar to the lined coat presented earlier, but there are some key differences.  Some of these techniques may also be of use to those making unlined civilian coats.

The first picture shows the front facings being put in; one has been sewn and the other turned and pressed.  The facing is placed on the coat right sides together with the canvas on top; then all three layers are sewn together along the front edge.



The next picture shows the breast pocket piece.  This was sometimes cut from scrap material in any available color.  Here the opening has been faced as it was for the lined coat.



More to follow,

Jim Ruley

[gweninla]

Thanks Jim! Your high quality photos and instructions are priceless.

Gwen in l.a.

[Jim_Ruley]

Thanks Gwen!

Continuing with the coat body:

The first step is to locate the pocket position and sew it down.  The facing is temporarily pinned in place, the pocket is basted in and the edges turned under.  Here it is after being sewn on:



The facing is then turned back over the pocket seam allowance and basted down, to be finished later.



The side and shoulder seams are now sewn.  However, instead of being pressed open as on the lined coat, they must be felled to prevent wear.  This is done by clipping one side of the seam allowance short and folding the other over it, then sewing it down with a whipstitch.  Here the stitching is in progress on a shoulder seam:



Here's what the finished seam looks like from the outside.  The stitching is barely visible, but the seam makes a perceptible "bump" on the outside of the coat.  The same technique is appropriate on unlined linen civilian coats, and men's shirts.



Enjoy,

Jim R.

[always in fashion]

I love these step by step illustrated instructions for these many projects, thanks so much for taking the time to share this with us because I know it is a bit time consuming.

Mrs. Stacy

[Jim_Ruley]

I love these step by step illustrated instructions for these many projects, thanks so much for taking the time to share this with us because I know it is a bit time consuming.

Sewing is one hobby, digital photography is another; so it's a nice convergence.  Drives my wife crazy sometimes though  .

I finished felling the body seams this evening, but no sense posting a bunch of pictures that all look alike  .

Thanks,

Jim R.

[Jim_Ruley]

Continuing with the collar construction:

The first picture shows the undercollar sewn in place.  Look carefully at the seam allowance.  In the area covered by the facings it is pressed open, but in the neck area it is pressed up so it will be covered by the top collar.  The basted facing is taken loose for this; that's why I didn't topstitch it earlier. 



The collar canvas sewn in place:



The collar canvas is stabilized by sewing to the collar seam allowance.  I like to use a cross-stitch for this, but a running stitch would probably also work.



The finished collar before topstitching.  The top edge of the facing is turned under and whipstitched to the seam allowance, then the collar is stitched to the facing edge and collar seam allowance.



Enjoy,

Jim R.

[Jim_Ruley]

Turning now to the sleeves:

The seams are sewn and then handfelled just like the body seams.  The cuff facings are sewn on with the raw back edges turned under since there is no lining.  The cuffs are then topstitched.  Here are inside (left) and outside views of the finished cuffs:



Enjoy,

Jim R.

[Jim_Ruley]

The sleeves are sewn into the armscyes, then the shoulder seam is clipped on one side and felled like the others.  Here's a photo from the outside showing the intersection of the shoulder, sleeve and side seams:



Enjoy,

Jim R.

[debi casey]

Jim,

I really appreciate this thread as it will help me with my linen coat.  I have noticed that the sleeve cuffs are always rounded in your pictures.  Do all the styles of coats have this rounded edge?

Thanks
Debi

[Jim_Ruley]

Do all the styles of coats have this rounded edge?

Hi Debi,

By "rounded edge" do you mean the vent at the lower sleeve seam?  That is characteristic of Federal enlisted sack coats, but I doubt it was common on civilian clothing.  I believe the linen coats at last year's Conference had plain cuffs with no vent.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[Carolann Schmitt]

That's correct, Jim. The sleeves on my linen sack coat are just hemmed. I have to look at the photos of Kara and Brian's to see if they are hemmed or faced, but I don't believe they had vents.

Carolann

[debi casey]

Thanks Jim and Carolann.  Making just a hem sure sounds alot easier.

Debi