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E L Watkins-Morris
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« on: December 06, 2016, 07:31:05 AM »

Ready for final fitting but something is missing:
https://goo.gl/photos/QJN1AwbMLgHpE9zWA

Please Note:
Not the hoop this will be worn with
Pelerine will have a collar
Dress form is set too tall
Lower part of sleeve is removable

Inspiration gown 1: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90853?sortBy=Date&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&where=United+States&what=Silk&ao=on&ft=dress&pg=8&rpp=20&pos=148

Inspiration gown 2: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/85340

Construction idea: Betsy Connelly's flounced ball gown with applied trim to extend the fabric

Any ideas?

Thank you,
Liz W.
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Simple yet complex...-Mark Baldridge, Art 101: The Principles of Design
EKorsmo
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2016, 09:17:24 AM »

In the first place, it's a lovely dress.  Watch out for mud puddles!

In the second, I sort of see what you mean; looks a bit more finished with the pelerine and undersleeves in place, as though being busier around the bodice helps.  That made me think that maybe adding decorative buttons (or swags based the sleeve tassels) to the center front bodice is what's needed--sort of like the second original.  But, looking at the first original more, particularly the shots of the low body without the pelerine, I'm not sure that would be helpful.  The plainer aesthetic, leaving it as-is, would seem to match that original more.  Perhaps it's worth waiting to see how it looks with all the accessories/jewelry you plan to wear it with?  I'm used to seeing berthas on adult low bodies, so I wonder is that's what's making me read it as 'incomplete'.

At any rate, it's very pretty.  What fun events are in its immediate future?
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E L Watkins-Morris
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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2016, 09:54:02 AM »

The owner is very particular about mud puddles! She will wear this mostly for dance demos.

You actually nailed what I DO NOT LIKE about the original gown. I would like to see the same button/tassels down the front. I'd also like some on the pelerine.

The client likes the simplicity of the scalloped trim and does not want to add any "layers" there.

Thanks!
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The Sewing-Bird.
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« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2016, 01:35:42 PM »

I could go either way ? tassels could be a nice touch, but I also appreciate how the calmness of the bodice gives more attention to the person wearing it, and shows off the trim very nicely. Lovely job, it's gorgeous!
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E L Watkins-Morris
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« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2016, 04:35:07 PM »

Hmm...you may be correct about the easiness of the bodice trim. May look better on her.
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Sue Leurgans
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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2016, 04:34:24 PM »

Lovely dress.  At first glance I thought a belt... then I saw the back.. so no.   If I could think of something appropriate, a small something at the waist would finish it for me.
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Sue Leurgans
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Jessamyn
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2016, 06:11:13 AM »

It does seem to be crying out for buttons...or something. I think the new version looks even more "unfinished" than the original, because the original's cleverly deployed complex fabric has given it different-colored finishing stripes at the front edges that also separate and highlight the floral sections, whereas on yours the matched plaid flows across the front edges. There's no crisp visual stopping point to track the eye up to the face or to acknowledge the front opening as intentional. (This is in no way critical of your beautiful fabric choice nor excellent plaid matching!)

One of the problems with using extant garments as templates is that we have no idea how it was worn, or what might be missing. The fashion plates are chock-full of separate gauzy white (and black) berthes, fichus, pelerines, etc., and the low bodies nearly always seem to have one of these things on them. Was that how the original was worn, with one of those? Perhaps. It is how I would wear it.

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Maggie Koenig
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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2016, 05:18:41 PM »

I would put it on her, or a person, before you decide on anything.  A person with stuff and movement may make the dress look more finished and "alive" more than a dress form.
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Maggie Koenig
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