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Author Topic: help with my wool bodice please!  (Read 1321 times)
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Mrs Johnson
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« on: November 06, 2016, 03:48:10 PM »

i'm having some issues.  i had to take the darts in, and now there's an almost vertical wrinkle between the side dart and the side seam.

and, even though it was fine on my mock-up, i don't have enough to do an inch wide fold over at CF.  Can i just seam some extra fabric to the edges and use that to make the fold over?

ugh.  i hate darts!

~ Jennifer
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« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2016, 10:56:44 AM »

Is this on the wool fabric itself, or on lining/mock-up?  Are you getting this wrinkle on both halves of the bodice or only one side? If possible, a picture will help.
Hopefully Liz will be by with better fitting advice, but here's what I would try:

1) If on a toile/lining, I would pin out the wrinkle, mark the darts, then let the darts out and use it to trace a new toile, adding the extra overlap to the center front (leave the wrinkle pinned, just like you do when swinging darts).

2) If on the wool itself, I would mark the current darts, and then would experiment with getting the wrinkle absorbed into the side seam.  If that doesn't work, I'd pinch out the extra into a third vertical dart on the side.  As needed, I'd piece extra to the center front (if this can be done on the underside where it's hidden by the overlap, so much the better).

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