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Author Topic: Do you need to adjust a pattern based on material?  (Read 989 times)
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Rob Bruno
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« on: October 13, 2015, 05:55:32 AM »

I pretty much finished up my linen sack coat I was making.  I still need a little finishing work, but it is basically there.  The coat seems a little big on me.  The pattern was drafted for me and the measurements that were used have been used to make frock coat patterns that fit me very well.  I understand that a sack will fit differently then a frock.  However, I am wondering if the pattern would need to be adjust based on the material used in the coat.  The one I made is an unlined linen coat.  I hand sewed the coat and flat felled all the interior seams.  Because the coat is not made of wool, does not have a lining, padding, canvas, etc, should I have made the pattern smaller to account for the different material and lack of many of the parts?
Rob
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Jim_Ruley
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« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2015, 08:26:40 PM »

Kathleen Fasanella in "The Enterpreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing" remarks that even different colors of the same fabric can behave differently enough to require pattern adjustments.  So, if you were running a production line you would need to adjust your pattern to account for these differences.  If you are making coats one at a time you can accomplish the same thing through fittings.  Since you used a different material and structure it is not surprising that the coat fit more loosely.  If you did a baste fitting before final sewing, you would have an opportunity to make the necessary adjustments before reaching the finishing stage.
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Rob Bruno
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2015, 05:38:24 AM »

Jim,
In the near future, can I send you a couple pics to get some feedback on how to adjust the pattern?  I don't want to start trying to adjust with out any feedback. 
Thanks,
Rob
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Jim_Ruley
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2015, 02:14:55 PM »

Sure, you can PM me or post them online in the forum.
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Jessamyn
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« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2015, 05:02:05 PM »

Preferably on-line so we can all learn something!  Smiley
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