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Author Topic: Button Location on Linen Sack Coat  (Read 2656 times)
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Rob Bruno
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« on: September 18, 2015, 06:05:22 AM »

I am finishing up a linen sack coat and had a button question.  I read through other threads and it seams that there can be 3 to 4 to 5 buttons on a civilian sack coat.  I am kind of tall so for proportions, I might go with 5.  I think I have 4 or 5 original Goodyear Rubber buttons so that could make my decision for me.  My question is placement.  I read through a few other threads and not sure of the answer.  I also read on thread that Jim posted a picture of a Devere plate that has 5 buttons on a Paletot.  For location, does one button hole go in the folded back part of the lapel?  Is there a corresponding button on the back side of the folded back lapel?  So basically a person could button up the lapel to where the collar starts?  For the bottom button, is it at the waist line or slightly below?  The plate that Jim posted is hard for me to tell where it is.
Thanks,
Rob
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Doug Frank
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« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2015, 08:16:37 AM »

Rob,

I can not answer your question on the button itself, but I can say that I have seen photos of civilian sack coats on the Library of Congress site both with and without a buttonhole at the top of the turned back lapel.  Now, whether they had that button up there or not I do not know and can not tell when I look at the photo.

So, I guess you can say that I am only half helpful here, if helpful at all.

Doug
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Joseph Stevens
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« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2015, 05:02:52 PM »

I am finishing up a linen sack coat and had a button question.  I read through other threads and it seams that there can be 3 to 4 to 5 buttons on a civilian sack coat.  I am kind of tall so for proportions, I might go with 5.  I think I have 4 or 5 original Goodyear Rubber buttons so that could make my decision for me.  My question is placement.  I read through a few other threads and not sure of the answer.  I also read on thread that Jim posted a picture of a Devere plate that has 5 buttons on a Paletot.  For location, does one button hole go in the folded back part of the lapel?  Is there a corresponding button on the back side of the folded back lapel?  So basically a person could button up the lapel to where the collar starts?  For the bottom button, is it at the waist line or slightly below?  The plate that Jim posted is hard for me to tell where it is.

Rob,
I think the number of buttons on a civilian sack is, at the end of the day, up to the nuances of current (well, for the time) fashion or personal aesthetics. As for the Devere plate you mention, are you referring to Plate 31? On the right side of that particular plate, under the heading of "Square Cut Style," Devere is showing in the bold lines a "Reefer or Pea Jacket." We'd call it a pea coat, and at least in his iteration of it, it's made so that it could be buttoned all the way up if need be.

The "Close Fitting Style" of paletot on the left side of the plate does not show a buttonhole on the lapel; whether or not you include one I think again has more to due with personal taste and current stylings than anything else. For what it's worth, there's pictures on here in one post (http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=526.0) of two original linen sack coats. One is owned by Carolann Schmitt, the other by Brian Merrick. Neither have a buttonhole, functional or otherwise, on their lapels.

As for the location of the bottom button, on both pattern drafts the bottom button is located below the natural waistline (indicated on the pattern by the dotted and strong solid lines).
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Joseph Stevens


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Rob Bruno
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« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2015, 05:35:16 AM »

Thanks Guys.  That info is helpful.  I have polled others as well and looked at a bunch of fashion plates, and it does seem like it is optional.  I am going to get the coat finished and then basically see how it looks as far as balance and if I like the button hole at the top.
Thanks again
Rob
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