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Author Topic: Corded Stays  (Read 4011 times)
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Michaela C
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« on: June 04, 2015, 03:55:22 PM »

Hello all!

Anyone have advice as to how to prevent this collapsing? I have yet to put straps on, which I believe will help hold it up a little more, but what about in the back? I was going for an inbetween from stays and corset. I probably should have made the front able to open so it's easier to get on.

I'm also looking for some basic instructions as to how to construct the straps. I've seen pictures of how the straps have a grommet and then tie to the actual garment, but why? How do they attach in the back?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24245460@N08/18469563085/in/datetaken/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24245460@N08/18465228732/in/datetaken/
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EKorsmo
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« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2015, 06:32:41 PM »

The corded corset I made with straps was 1820s, but in that version, the straps were sewn on to the back panel, and tied to the front of the garments through eyelets.  This made it a lot easier to put on, in my experience, as the straps sat very low over the shoulder.  Adding them also drastically changed the fit, and so I'd do that before making any further changes.

This pic sort of shows how the straps worked on mine:

(Sorry for the huge picture, one day I'll figure out how to re-size them)

For the collapsing bit, my guess is that you need some more cording along the center front and side-front.  Experts? 

A front opening is very nice for ease of dressing, but failing that, really long ties are your best friend. Smiley

 
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2015, 06:52:14 PM »

Because you own bosoms, you'll have to add more cording to get any shaping and support in the bust (and adding straps will help somewhat, too.)

If you use no other steel, DO use it at the center back, one steel at the edge of the garment, and one just after the lacing grommets. It will help prevent the creasing to the middle. Consider cutting off the current grommet panel, adding in about 1.25" strips, and putting the grommet panel back on. Right now, the spring is beyond spring; when fully laced, you only need a 2" to 3" gap between the edges.
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Elizabeth
Michaela C
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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2015, 10:32:47 AM »

OK, thank you for the suggestions. I'm not looking forward to ripping off those back panels, but you're right in that there is way too much space in the back. I was really shy of accidentally not having enough (the last one was like that), so I just kept cutting it a little shorter.
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Michaela C
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« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2015, 06:37:57 PM »

Hmmm...Mrs. Korsmo, did you handsew the eyelets, or use grommets?

 I've been trying to find any kind of original girl's stays (sketch, photo, or actual garment) , but can't find a single thing.
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EKorsmo
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« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2015, 06:15:57 PM »

I did hand-sewn eyelets on the front, because that what I was seeing on the 1820s originals (I cheated and used metal grommets on the back, because I really didn't want to do another 28 or so by hand).

I checked through the Met, and the closest-to-the-target-date corset with straps that I could find was 1840s. This one definitely has metal eyelets down the back, but can't get a good look at the front straps' attachment.
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Heidi Hollister
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« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2015, 10:36:06 PM »

dittos on what Elizabeth said about steel boning in the back.  I made a maternity corset which was all corded, no boning.  While I loved it and it did it's job, it could have done its job 10 times better if I had used steel boning in the back.   The boning gives extra support and stability to the corset and helps the strain when you're lacing yourself in.

Straps seem pretty necessary here if you're not using boning for support. 
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