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Author Topic: A Particular Chemise Style  (Read 7424 times)
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BetsyConnolly
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« on: May 15, 2015, 01:06:57 PM »

While I've been perusing drawings and illustrations of original undergarments in ladies' magazines, I've noticed a particular style of chemise. It has the sleeves cut as one, either with the body of the chemise or with a yoke. Here's an example (the one on the bottom):



Has anyone made a chemise like this before? Or does anyone have any insight as to how one of these chemises might be drafted?

Thanks!
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Betsy Connolly
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EKorsmo
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2015, 05:18:11 PM »

There was a picture of a similar original chemise circulating last year.  Pictures and diagram here.
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BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2015, 07:18:48 AM »

YES! That's it! That is exactly the kind of resource I was looking for. Gussets in the armpit region...never would have thought of that!

I'm assuming there are gussets on the backside as well....hm....
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Betsy Connolly
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2015, 08:37:07 AM »

That's a very cool style, and very efficient for cutting, but it's not the same geometry as the one in the magazine diagram. That one is something I have on my stack to play with, actually. Cheesy I'll post when I get it sussed.
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Elizabeth
BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2015, 07:00:27 AM »

OOOOO.  I will look forward to seeing it. Since I've been afforded the opportunity to upgrade all my undergarments, I'm trying out different styles to decide what I like. This is a shape that has intrigued me for a while, and I want to give it a go.
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Betsy Connolly
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« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2015, 11:10:02 AM »

Sorry about that.  I thought the sleeve/neckline cut as one worked the same way (less the whole yoked/unyoked bit).  Am interested to see how it actually fits together.
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Stephanie Brennan
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« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2015, 11:38:50 AM »

Just some thoughts on the bottom chemise  and how to make the yoke Betsy posted-
  If I folded the fabric with a fold at top and side (4 layers thick)  I could place the yoke pattern like this- the longer upper fold for the top of the shoulder and the side fold for the center front and back. That places the under arm portion of the sleeve on the bias for stretch.   What do you think?
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Stephanie Brennan
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« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2015, 12:08:38 PM »

 like this- 

http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/ii505/stephaniebrennan/chemise%20yoke.png
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Elizabeth
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« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2015, 04:25:41 PM »

There are two ways I want to try the geometry--one with seams at the shoulder and underarm, which allows for a bias seam and  integrated gusset; the other with bias folds at the underarms. I'll see if I can bump it to my top list. Cheesy
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Dana Repp
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2015, 10:09:42 AM »

Elizabeth, Betsy, did you ladies ever make this? I'm due for a new chemise or two and like this style.
 
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~Dana~

Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters
Col. 3:23
BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2015, 10:12:05 AM »

Hi Dana! Yes, I did make this - it's very easy and whips up fast! Unfortunately, I made the neck band a wee bit too small, so I need to go back and redo it. Pro tip: be very, very generous when you measure the neck band!

I'm planning on making a couple more in this style, as it's so easy to do and so comfortable to wear.
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Betsy Connolly
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Dana Repp
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« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2015, 10:36:30 AM »

So a couple of questions because I tend to underestimate the difficulty at times.  Cheesy
Did you simply fold the yoke and cut?  Did you put in gussets in the underarms? 
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~Dana~

Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters
Col. 3:23
BetsyConnolly
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« Reply #12 on: August 26, 2015, 12:51:17 PM »

Sorry I wasn't clear, Dana - I made the chemise Elizabeth Korsmo linked to in her initial reply, not the yoked chemise. Haven't tested out that style yet, but I'm interested.
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Betsy Connolly
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MaryDee
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« Reply #13 on: August 26, 2015, 01:56:13 PM »

Another one here very interested in the yoked chemise.  I need to make a couple more chemises.  Just for variety, I would love to do something different from the one in the Dressmaker's Guide.
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Dana Repp
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« Reply #14 on: August 26, 2015, 08:29:23 PM »

Okay I accept the challenge and I'll start playing to see what I can figure out.  If I come up with something other than a UFO I'll post it here.  Smiley
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~Dana~

Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters
Col. 3:23
Stephanie Brennan
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« Reply #15 on: August 27, 2015, 01:58:09 AM »

   How about if we put the yoke on bias folds by taking a square, folding it into a triangle and once more fold into another triangle.  Then lay your pattern so shoulder seam and center front are on folds. That would give you more of a bias cut in places where you need the stretch.   I've seen children's jackets and a wrapper top made like this.
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