Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Correct Cravat Silks  (Read 2209 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Allison vV
Dedicated Scribbler
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 264



« on: June 22, 2014, 09:22:07 AM »

While doing the research for my brothers outfit, I've come to a question regarding proper silks for a cravat.  I will be making the square or triangle folded and tied cravat (not the pre-tied).  Because of this, I do not need a particularly stiff silk.  Although I understand some fine cottons are proper, as well as silk, these are the silks that I think are "okay":

     Habotai, or China Silk -- Is this too sheer or lightweight?  Could I starch it lightly if needed?

     Taffeta -- probably the best and most expensive (before satin).  Do I really need this silk? Smiley

     Satin -- probably too expensive right now.

Are there any other options of correct silks?  I found a cotton/silk poplin, would that work?

Finally, colour.  Are dark colours best? muted or bright?  I know white is the best for dress, but for a "fine" every-day cravat, what would be a good anchor, or staple colour -- black?

Sorry for the many question, but I really have tried to search this out.  I would be grateful for any help.
Logged

Allison van Vegten


"Procrastination is the thief of time. Collar him!" Charles Dickens

"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
Allison vV
Dedicated Scribbler
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 264



« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2014, 11:00:19 AM »

Just bumping this up.

Does anyone have any advice?
Logged

Allison van Vegten


"Procrastination is the thief of time. Collar him!" Charles Dickens

"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
Jim_Ruley
Senior Research
Scribblor Infinitus
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1389


Tailor at work


« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2014, 04:30:21 PM »

Hi Allison,

I think you may be the first one here to try this, hence the hesitation.

I experimented with habotai silk a few years ago for coat linings.  While it can be used, it's not really strong enough, and is very difficult to work with.  Basically it's "gauzy" and will not hold its shape when cut.  I expect the same problems would make it very trying to use for a cravat.

I expect taffeta would be best, but you might want to contact a cravat maker (Corner Clothiers?) and see what they use.

As to color, black is the safe choice, but you could match or compliment any other color in the ensemble.  Or let the cravat be the only colored piece.
Logged
E L Watkins-Morris
Veteran Scribbler
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 766



« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2014, 04:16:00 AM »

The pre-tied cravats I've seen from Corner Clothier are mostly taffeta. I have not seen anyone selling cravats in the style you are wanting.

Taffeta also comes in several weights which can affect the price. Lighter weight silks can be starched, but wash them first.

Check the remnant/clearance section at some of the online silk resources. You may find sufficient quantity for a nice price. If you look carefully, you can also find really good silk remnants at some of the custom home decor stores or call your local interior designer. I managed to score several 1-2 yard lengths of 60" polished cotton and taffeta for $5 each once I got up the courage to ask.

Liz W.
Logged

Materium Superbat Opus-Ovid
Simple yet complex...-Mark Baldridge, Art 101: The Principles of Design
kellydorman
Dedicated Scribbler
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 303


« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2014, 04:47:50 AM »

My husband has worn this style, we use taffeta. Please be aware that you will need a fairly large square, more than you might expect, especially if you wrap from front to back and around again.

The ability to achieve different looks depending on exactly how it is tied is nice. I've not done a scientific survey, but my personal impression is that the smaller pretied style is more common on younger men.

Regards,
Kelly
Logged

Allison vV
Dedicated Scribbler
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 264



« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2014, 02:44:36 PM »

Thank you, everyone, for your responses.

I shall not use the habotai silk.  I'm glad you have had experience with it, Mr. Ruley.  I think I will go with the silk taffeta.  Thank you for the suggestion of remnants, Mrs. Morris -- I'll look into that.

Please be aware that you will need a fairly large square, more than you might expect, especially if you wrap from front to back and around again.

Thank you.  I was planning on 1 - 1 1/4 yds. silk (according to the Past Patterns shirt instuctions).  His neck is only 15", so that that should be plenty, right?

I've not done a scientific survey, but my personal impression is that the smaller pretied style is more common on younger men.

If anyone is interested, I would very much like to hear any other advice regarding this.  I examined a few fashion plates (from Bibiliotheque des Arts decoratifs), and found that about 50% of the youngmen were wearing the pre-tied (bowtie-like) cravats; and the other 50%, the Gordian knot (square knot-like) cravats.
Logged

Allison van Vegten


"Procrastination is the thief of time. Collar him!" Charles Dickens

"It's the job that's never started as takes longest to finish." J. R. R. Tolkien
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines