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Author Topic: plaid shirt- fabric check  (Read 2884 times)
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Trish B
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« on: June 21, 2014, 01:58:09 PM »

My husband requested a new shirt- not white.  I have this: http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=30951119204473095&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=13396  It is a very fine smooth fabric- a very nice quality shirting.   The front, back and sleeves are cut out, and I was planning to do the collar, cuffs and bosom  in white linen, and a linen lining.  After looking at many threads and Thought on Men's Shirts , I am wondering if I should just make a shirt with a placket- all in plaid. Would a white pleated bosom be totally off for an 1850 shirt of this fabric?
Thanks for any help.  trish B.
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Allison vV
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« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2014, 11:07:02 AM »

I haven't done a lot of research on men's wear to be experienced, but here are my thoughts.

Would a white pleated bosom be totally off for an 1850 shirt of this fabric?

I don't think so.  Since it is a fine shirting, I don't think there should be any problem pairing it with the white linen.  (If it were a less-fine quilting cotton there might be a conflict).  I, personally, would prefer the white bosom, collar, and cuffs with the plaid, than all plaid with a "placket" (I assume you mean no bosom?).

That looks like a very nice fabric to work with.
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Allison van Vegten


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Chip
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« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2014, 11:37:36 AM »

My husband requested a new shirt- not white.  I have this: http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=30951119204473095&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=13396  It is a very fine smooth fabric- a very nice quality shirting.   The front, back and sleeves are cut out, and I was planning to do the collar, cuffs and bosom  in white linen, and a linen lining.  After looking at many threads and Thought on Men's Shirts , I am wondering if I should just make a shirt with a placket- all in plaid. Would a white pleated bosom be totally off for an 1850 shirt of this fabric?
Thanks for any help.  trish B.

The part of this that caught my eye was the indication that you are thinking about putting in a, "lining."

To be honest, by the time you put a vest and coat over this shirt you would typically be heading out of a comfort zone, if it will be used in moderate to warm weather. 

However, if you are actually thinking about making a shirt for very cold weather, cotton should probably not be your first choice of fabrics in the first place.

A white pleated front and collar would likely be the only part of the shirt showing if worn under a vest and coat. In other words, the shirt would probably look like a white shirt based on what would show.
Pleated white shirts were typically not worn as work shirts. If he will be working and will only have a vest on over the white pleating, with the other fabric showing, it will look odd in my opinion.
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Carolann Schmitt
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2014, 07:50:57 AM »

I believe Trish is using the word lining to refer to the reinforced areas over the shoulders and upper chest, not lining the entire shirt.

I have examined or observed plaid shirts with placket openings, and white shirts with 'bib' fronts. I have not personally examined a plaid shirt with a white pleated bib. I can't say if they did or didn't exist. I'd love to see examples if they did.

Carolann

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Carolann Schmitt - Only a historian understands how much you need to know in order to recognize how much you don't know. - Elizabeth Ann Coleman
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Joseph Stevens
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« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2014, 11:42:26 AM »

The part of this that caught my eye was the indication that you are thinking about putting in a, "lining."

To be honest, by the time you put a vest and coat over this shirt you would typically be heading out of a comfort zone, if it will be used in moderate to warm weather. 

It's actually not that bad and I do it frequently at summer events, sometimes wearing an undershirt even.

From practical experience I doubt that the shirt linings that appear in most originals had little to do with the warmth of the wearer; they instead seem to be intended to reinforce those areas which would take wear (remember, most men wore suspenders and the constant abrasion DOES wreck havoc on shirts) and also make for a more comfortable shirt. With the linings the seam allowances on the shoulders and around the amrscye are encased, which in my experience has been far more comfortable than even just felled seams.
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Joseph Stevens


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Chip
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« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2014, 07:22:15 AM »

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« Last Edit: July 02, 2014, 01:06:16 PM by Chip » Logged
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