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 21 
 on: May 23, 2013, 01:02:53 PM 
Started by Danielle le Roux - Last post by lillian
You can get sturdier zip ties at walmart, I was able to get 3/8 inch wide ones and they had wider ones available. I'm going with a combination of zip ties and cording for my new corset.

 22 
 on: May 23, 2013, 10:13:04 AM 
Started by lmkrausse - Last post by Emily Barry
I can't answer your question, but
Quote
I got a gorgeous (supposed to be) salmon (more like red) silk gauze

Maybe it's sockeye salmon! Cheesy Roll Eyes

 23 
 on: May 23, 2013, 09:27:02 AM 
Started by lmkrausse - Last post by E L Watkins-Morris
I've not had any issues starching light silks-do a test swatch!

Liz W.

 24 
 on: May 23, 2013, 06:24:15 AM 
Started by Jehanne H - Last post by hanktrent
I agree with Jean. For a squares-and-rectangles shirt, the sleeve/underarm area seems so baggy it's hard to think it would tear. For shaped shirts, the armholes are smaller--at least the one I made based off one at the Ohio Historical Society is. It fits tighter than a modern shirt in the armscye area, and feels like it should restrict motion, but I actually wear it to do period carpentry work and there's complete freedom of motion. So there's something about the cut that makes it work.

I'm guessing it has to do with the gusset size or other aspects of the pattern, that's causing excess strain.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

 25 
 on: May 23, 2013, 05:51:40 AM 
Started by Jehanne H - Last post by Ms. Jean


In my somewhat limited experience with gussets, a gusset that tears is a gusset that is too small!

HTH,

Jean

 26 
 on: May 23, 2013, 05:44:09 AM 
Started by Cate H - Last post by Jessamyn
K, do you mean that this stitching holds the sheer to the lining? That seems like a good idea.

 27 
 on: May 23, 2013, 05:43:04 AM 
Started by lmkrausse - Last post by lmkrausse
Good Morning

I'm in the pondering stage of a sheer dress for the summer after sweating, I'm sorry.."glistening", at an event this past Sunday.

My question is can silk gauze be starched like a cotton can to give it more body?  I got a gorgeous (supposed to be) salmon (more like red) silk gauze, and I want to do a sheer dress with tucks on the skirts and sleeves.  I plan to wear it over petticoats and cage.  But I'm not sure if tucks will be enough to give it body, or if it would take starch or not.

Margaret

 28 
 on: May 23, 2013, 05:37:58 AM 
Started by Cate H - Last post by K Krewer
Looks lovely so far!  The one hint I would give is something I've seen on a lot of sheer dresses -- an inconspicuous line of stitching that runs diagonally from the waist to the side of the bust, to the outside of where a dart might be, to ensure that the gathered fashion fabric stays gracefully over the bust.  The fashion fabric lies smoothly over the side that way, and the gathering is concentrated towards the front of the dress.

 29 
 on: May 23, 2013, 05:00:51 AM 
Started by Cate H - Last post by Cate H
Do you mean that you want to even out the gathers where they meet the waistband? Definitely run the gathering thread by hand, and baste the waistband on before nailing it all down with the machine. You could also perhaps run a line or two of shirring (basically, just gathering stitches that you don't pull out) just above the waistline. It's something I've seen on regular gathered bodies, not crossovers, but I haven't seen very many crossovers.

The basting before nailing was what I wasn't doing - I was attatching the waist band to the thread with needles but not with a stitch.  that ought to help...the main issue with the boddice is that it is a loose gather and not a tight one - which seems so much easier.

 30 
 on: May 23, 2013, 04:34:09 AM 
Started by Jehanne H - Last post by Jehanne H
I think that underarm gussets present a weak place in the construction of a shirt.
Does anyone have a suggestion as what order to construct these in, or, how to reinforce them?
I have seen many of them torn out in the shirts in our costume room.
And, the ones that I have been making have me worried about that.
I stop the stitching at every point and backstitch.  I then lift the presser foot and sew the next leg of the square.  In other words, I leave the seam allowances not stitched down.
How do others deal with these gussets?

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