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 1 
 on: Today at 01:23:22 AM 
Started by EKorsmo - Last post by EKorsmo
I'm excited to be heading back east this March--for Genteel Arts in Gettyburg, and the Costume Society of America's National meeting at Williamsburg.

Do any of the knowledgeable ladies and gentlemen have advice for historic sites/museums/activities that one must see in or around either of these two cities?  I've only been to the east coast a couple of times, and would appreciate recommendations.

[Also, logistics wise, what is the best way to get to Gettysburg when flying?  I'm looking at shuttle services from Baltimore, but there don't seem to be many options...]

 2 
 on: Today at 01:15:34 AM 
Started by KatelynH - Last post by EKorsmo
Well, the upside to undersleeves is that you can make as many styles as you want and switch them out. Wink

Are you intending to keep the funnel sleeves or try to alter them into coat sleeves? I apologize for my reading comprehension failure, but thesis research has taken over my brain.

Most of the open undersleeve fashion plates that I remember seeing are from closer to 1860, when the really ridiculously wide sleeves are in style. Scanning the 1865 Godey's shows lots of narrow undersleeves with deep, highly decorated cuffs.  [I can't tell if the bride in the January plate has open undersleeves with her slightly-wider coat sleeves, or if that's just a bunch of ruffles--but every other figure has slim coat sleeves with closed undersleeves.]

 3 
 on: January 16, 2018, 07:50:35 AM 
Started by KatelynH - Last post by KatelynH
I've tried to look up this answer but can't find anything.

So, I'm making an 1865 dress.  The dress is based on this one at the MET:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107654?rpp=20&pg=66&rndkey=20131130&ao=on&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Dresses&img=1

My silk is red shot black and I bought some antique Maltese lace for the evening bodice (the original is not Maltese, but I found several yards of Maltese so I'm going to use that). I'm still looking for some nice black lace for the day bodice sleeves.

However, my question is for undersleeves to go under the day bodice.  When you pull up the MET site, you can clearly see that the sleeves are coat sleeves.  However, pulled this image off pinterest before I found the MET site: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/451978512596614317/.  To me, it looked more like a funnel sleeve so I cut sleeves before I found that webpage and made them sort of funnel like, such as in this original from the Sigal Museum:

http://fripperiesandfobs.tumblr.com/image/104090121128

I do plan on putting the black lace on them eventually, but also plan on wearing the dress without it in the meantime until I can find the right kind of lace.  What kind of undersleeves would be worn with this dress?  It looks like open undersleeves would look really nice (and that's kind of what I want) but I know by the early-mid 1860's, most undersleeves were closed.  But by the 1870's, it seems like open undersleeves (or at least a little lace on the edge of the sleeve) is a thing as opposed to a closed cuff.  When does this change take place?  Would it look totally off if I had open undersleeves for this gown?  Or should I stick with closed?

Also, I notice the original bodice has a bit of small black lace on the neckline.  I'm assuming this would have been original and there would have been a white stand up collar on the other side.  I think that would look really cool, but want to make sure that lace could be original and that was an actual thing.

Edited to add one more question: What are the four buttons on the waistline on the day bodice for?  There is one on the center front, and three in the back.  Were they used to attach something?  Were there more of them around and they were decorative?  Just trying to decide if I should add them to my dress or not.

 4 
 on: January 13, 2018, 05:07:42 AM 
Started by Elidh - Last post by Ms. Jean
Your dress is lovely right now!

Re: sleeves.  I'm no expert, and can't find an image this morning to show this idea.  Can you open the outside of the sleeve & make a lacey or ruffled undersleeve to show through the split?

I am confident someone ( Jessamyn, cough cough) will understand and find us a picture.

Thanks for the pictures of your dress, Jean

 5 
 on: January 07, 2018, 12:34:50 PM 
Started by Elidh - Last post by Elidh
Thanks for your comments!  After thinking about it more, I have decided it would be more practical (and a heck of a lot easier) to leave my dress intact and just fancy it up with a new collar and belt.  I found a vintage lawn and lace foldover crossover collar and vintage blue ribbon.  Any thoughts on the ribbon?  It has fine silver threads woven into it, so I wasn't certain if it looked too modern, but I like the pop of the blue against the burgundy silk fabric.  (I have a few buckles I can use with it.)  Here are some photos:

http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Elidh/media/dress%20new%20collar%20and%20blue%20belt_1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

=68697936&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0]http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Elidh/media/blue%20ribbon_2.jpg.html?filters[user]=68697936&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

I'm not sure what to do to the bottom of the sleeves.  I will be taking the plaid trim off - should I replace it with a band of white lace or Huh?

 6 
 on: January 06, 2018, 02:39:07 PM 
Started by kglange - Last post by Ms. Jean
Have you tried the SEARCH tab?

This thread includes extended discussion of the sacque/petticoat outfit; a few linked photos also.

http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=118.0

The SEARCH box is wonderful while waiting for direct expert advice!

HTH, Jean

 7 
 on: January 05, 2018, 01:26:58 PM 
Started by kglange - Last post by kglange
Are 'undress' sacque-petticoat combos usually made out of matching fabrics?  Or can I use up some of my smaller fabric pieces?


 8 
 on: December 30, 2017, 06:52:16 PM 
Started by Elidh - Last post by Maggie Koenig
There is one important stumbling point to changing a dress to a low body.  There is ease above your bustline on a regular day dress.  When you cut it down you will probably end up with gaping.  If you were starting from a fresh muslin you would cut the neckline down and dart to create a snugger neckline.  You then swing those darts down to the waist darts. 

 9 
 on: December 27, 2017, 12:32:08 PM 
Started by Sue Leurgans - Last post by The Sewing-Bird.
How very interesting! Thank you for sharing this. If I come across anything, I'll be sure to add to the thread.

 10 
 on: December 25, 2017, 09:52:04 PM 
Started by Sue Leurgans - Last post by EKorsmo
Old topic, but it peaked my interest about terminology changes. If anyone else is interested, Godey's appears to change theirs between 1878 ("receipts") and 1879 ("recipes").  

To bring it into our period: while receipt is preferred, the terms are mixing even as far back as the 1850s.  In The Behavior Book (1854) Miss Leslie writes: "By-the-bye, remember that a receipt for cookery, is not to be called a recipe. The word recipe belongs to pharmacy, and is only used with reference to medical prescriptions. The cook uses receipts, the apothecary recipes." (p. 272) Emphasis original.  She wouldn't need to clarify if there wasn't some 'mis-use' of the words. In fact, an advertisement the previous year for Miss Leslie's Domestic Receipt Book notes that "It contains directions for cooking, preserving, pickling, preparing almost every description of dish; also one hundred and twenty recipes for preparing farina, Indian meal, fancy tea cakes, marmalades, ec." (emphasis mine).


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