The Sewing Academy @ Home

Women's Clothing Discussion => Dresses => Topic started by: Elaine M on April 15, 2017, 08:37:50 AM

Title: trim on sleeve
Post by: Elaine M on April 15, 2017, 08:37:50 AM
Now that the yoked bodice is complete, I would like to tackle the trim on the sleeve of my inspiration dress.  I believe the sleeve to be a bishop.  There is a line of ruched or pleated trim down the outside.

Should I cut it on the bias, pink the edges, and leave it soft?  Or should I needle roll both sides?  You DO know which answer I'm hoping for, don't you?   :D





Title: Re: trim on sleeve
Post by: Elizabeth on April 16, 2017, 03:50:51 PM
This looks like it's got a dark edge, which could indicate it is on-grain and cut to have the edge fall on the darks, or that a fine silk ribbon (non-satin) is folded over the edge.

Remind me your textile? I'd hesitate to do a full rolled hem, but perhaps a folded-once hem, hand-stitched, could work. Not bulky, not too stiff.

Title: Re: trim on sleeve
Post by: Jessamyn on April 16, 2017, 05:07:45 PM
I would only pink edges on something that was very tightly woven and was very dressy. Pinking frays. I'm trying to think if I've seen any pinked wools in this period, and drawing a blank. And yours is cotton? I would definitely not pink.

My machine has a narrow-hemming foot that does a pretty good job on this kind of thing. I wouldn't use it for the edge of a white collar or anything like that, but for straight strips of trim with a pattern to them it's the bee's knees.

Another period way to approach this kind of trim is to make a sort of flattened bias tube. I say "a sort" of tube because it's not like a modern stitch-right-sides-together-and-turn kind of tube. You cut a bias strip a little more than twice as wide as your finished trim. Press under a narrow allowance on one edge, then lay it right side down, fold the raw edge in just past the middle, fold the pressed-under edge over the raw edge to hide it, press the whole thing flat, and slip-stitch the p ressed-under edge over the raw edge. That is now the underside of your trim.

This trim looks to have been done that way:

Title: Re: trim on sleeve
Post by: Elaine M on April 17, 2017, 09:24:16 AM
Liz, it's a cotton.  Not as light as a shirtingl

Jessamyn, I am very intrigued by the tube idea!  I'm thinking it might give the ruching some more bulk, which is what I read on the original trim.